Crochet this stunning Wildrose Backpack to hold your essentials on all your travels and adventures, from music festivals to the beach! The modern granny square is centered as a focal point with a variety of crochet stitches and techniques providing plenty of visual interest.
The sturdy strap is part of the drawstring closure that allows for easy opening and closing of the backpack. An interior pocket holds your cell phone, and an optional tassel can be added for some pops of color!
FinishedDimensions: 11”/28 cm wide, 12.5”/32 cm tall, 22”/56 cm circumference
The Wildrose Backpack Pattern
Material
- 4 skeins of 24/7 Cotton in Taupe (worsted weight level 4 yarn)
- 2.75 mm and 3.75 mm crochet hooks
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch markers
- Embroidery floss (optional for tassel
Notes
- Gauge: Center granny square: 5” x 5”, 18 sc + 20 rows = 4”/10 cm
- This backpack is constructed using a variety of crochet stitches and is segmented into different sections.
- First, the center granny square is crocheted along with four triangles.
- The four triangles are seamed to the granny square to create a large square.
- Next, turned rows are crocheted onto the sides of the large square to form the sides of the backpack. Once the desired width is achieved, the sides are whip stitched together along the back – a tube has now been formed.
- Stitches are picked up along the top and bottom of the tube to form the top and bottom edging. This edging is worked in joined rounds. Some of the rounds are worked with chain stitch gaps, and the crocheted strap will be woven through these gaps later on.
Notes cont’d
- Next, two rectangles are crocheted and sewn together to form the sturdy bottom of the backpack so that it does not bulge too much. These rectangles are then slip stitched onto the bottom of the tube.
- Lastly, a long tube is crocheted to form the strap. Both ends of the strap are woven into certain chain gaps to form the drawstring closure. Each end is then seamed onto the bottom back corner of the backpack.
- An optional tassel is created as a decorative touch for the backpack.
- Throughout the pattern, please take note whether you are working in turned rows or seamed rounds.
Abbreviations & Special sts
- Magic Ring (MR): Make a loop. Hold yarn where ends cross. Insert hook into loop and pull up working yarn. Yarn over and work beginning chains. Work subsequent stitches in magic ring and then pull tight to close.
- Puff stitch (puff st): [YO, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up a loop], repeat 3 times in same st, YO, draw yarn through 7 loops on hook.
- Beginning cluster: Ch 3, [YO, insert hook in st or sp, YO, pull up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops], rep 2 times in same st or sp, YO, draw through 3 loops on hook.
Abbreviations cont’d
- Cluster: [YO, insert hook in st or sp, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops on hook], rep 3 times in same st or sp, YO, draw through 4 loops on hook.
- Extended single crochet: Insert hook through next stitch. Pull up a loop and extend the loop to desired height (elongate it to match the height of the rest of the stitches). YO, pull through both loops on hook.
- Extended half double crochet: YO, insert hook through next stitch. Pull up a loop and extend the loop to desired height (elongate it to match the height of the rest of the stitches). YO, pull through 3 loops on hook.
- Half double crochet in third loops: When working half double crochets, three loops are created: a front loop, back loop, and third loop (located behind the front and back loops). Take note in the pattern where stitches are worked in the third loops.
- Reverse single crochet/waistcoat stitch: Working from left to right (opposite direction you normally crochet), insert hook from front to back in stitch to the right. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook.
Pattern
Please reference Appendix A (Granny Square tutorial) on page 8 and Appendix B (Wildrose Backpack Step-by-step Tutorial) on page 11 for detailed pictures.
Center Granny Square (worked in rounds)
Using 3.75 mm hook,
Round 1: Make Magic Ring. Chain 4 (counts as 1st double crochet and chain 1). *1 dc, ch 1*, rep 11 times in ring. Join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. (12 ch-1 spaces and 12 dc).
Round 2: Slip stitch into ch-1 space, Chain
3. *Puff st, chain 1* in each ch-1 space around. Join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning ch-3. (12 puffs)
Round 3: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space. Work beginning cluster in space. [*Ch 1, cluster* in next 2 ch-1 spaces, Ch 3.
Cluster in next ch-1 sp]. Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 more times. *Ch 1, cluster* in next 2 ch-1 spaces. Ch 3, slip stitch to 3rd chain of beg ch-3. (12 clusters)
Round 4: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space. Work beginning cluster in space. Ch 1, work cluster in next space, ch 1. In ch-3 space, work *cluster, ch 3, cluster*. [In next 2 ch-1 sps, work *ch 1, cluster*, Ch 1. In Ch-3 sp, work *cluster, ch 3, cluster*].
Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 more times. Ch 1, slip stitch to 3rd chain of beg ch-3. (16 clusters)
Round 5: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space, ch 3. Work 2 dc in same space. 3 dc in next ch-1 sp. [In next ch-3 sp, *3 dc, ch 3, 3dc*. 3 dc in next 3 ch-1 sp.]. Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 more times. In next ch-3 sp, *3 dc, ch 3, 3dc*. 3 dc in last chain space. Slip stitch to 3rd chain of beg ch-3. (60 dc)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in each dc until you reach dc before Ch 3 (7 dc). Skip next dc, *3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc* in Ch-3 corner. [Skip next dc, dc across until reach dc before Ch 3 (13 dc). Skip next dc, *3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc* in ch-3 corner.].
Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 more times. Skip next dc, dc 5. Slip stitch to top of Ch 3. (76 dc) Fasten off.
Triangle (make 4 – worked in turned rows)
Using 3.75 mm hook,
Make Magic Ring.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc in ring, Ch 2, 3 dc in ring. (6 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4, turn. 2 dc in same st. Work 1 dc in each dc until Ch-2 corner space. Work *2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc* in corner space. Work 1 dc in each dc until last st. Work 3 dc in last st. (14 dc).
Row 3: Repeat R2. (22 dc)
Row 4: Repeat R2. (30 dc).
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.
Optional: Block center granny square
and four triangles to ensure they are flat.
Position center granny square so that it is a diamond (one corner is pointing upwards and one corner is pointing downwards).
Position 4 triangles on diagonal edges so that they form one large square. Flip the pieces upside down and begin attaching: whip stitch triangles to square, leaving front and back loops of center granny square untouched (attach triangles to horizontal bars on the back side of the granny square).
Backpack Sides
We will now be picking up stitches along the sides of the large square and working in turned rows to crochet the sides of the backpack.
Using 3.75 mm hook,
Row 1: Starting in bottom right corner, pick up 32 single crochet stitches. To do so, make a slip knot. Insert your crochet hook into the right corner. Add the slip knot and pull through. Yarn over and chain 1. Insert your hook into an adjacent space, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops to work a single crochet. Keep repeating this process to pick up 32 single crochets along the side edge of the large square. Work an extended single crochet at the corner of the granny square at the dip between the two triangles. (32 sts).
R2: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, sc across. (32 sts).
R3-40: Repeat Row 2. Fasten off. Do not cut the yarn when finished the first side as you can use this to work on the bottom edging later on.
Repeat R1-40 on the other side of the large square to crochet the other side of the backpack (I used a new ball of yarn to crochet the second side). You will begin crocheting in the top left corner. Fasten off, cut the yarn, and leave long end for sewing on this second side. Once both sides of the backpack have been crocheted and the desired width has been achieved, flip the entire piece inside out. Use yarn tail from the top and whip stitch the edges together from the top to the bottom. Leave the working yarn on the bottom (do not cut) as this can be used when working the bottom edging later on. A tube has been formed. Flip the tube right side out so that the correct side is facing outwards.
Top Edging
We will be picking up stitches along the top edge of the tube and working in joined rounds. Start at back seam where you whip stitched the side edges together.
Using 3.75 mm hook,
Round 1: Make a slip knot. Insert crochet hook at back seam, add slip knot onto hook, pull through. Chain 2, work 1 hdc in same stitch. Yarn over, insert your hook into an adjacent space, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all three loops (a half double crochet has been created). Keep repeating this process to pick up 114 half double crochets around, trying to space them as evenly as possible. When approaching the dip of the “V” of the large square (in the center front of the tube), work 3 extended half double crochets to help even out the height of the round. At the end of the round, slip stitch to the top of the first hdc. (114 hdc) R2: Chain 2, hdc in same st. Hdc in third loops around. Slip stitch to top of first hdc. (114 hdc)
R3: Chain 2, hdc in same st. Working in third loops, hdc 2, ch 1, skip 1. Working in third loops, *Hdc 3, Ch 1, Sk 1*, rep around until last two stitches. Hdc 2 in last 2 sts. Slip stitch to top of first hdc. (114 sts)
R4: Chain 1, sc in same st. Sc 2 in third loops and bump of chain 1. *Sc 3 in third loops and bump of chain 1*, rep around. Slip stitch to top of first sc. (114 sc)
R5: Chain 1, sc in same st. Sc around. Slip stitch to top of first sc. (114 sts)
R6-8: Repeat R5.
R9: Chain 2, hdc in same st. Hdc 2, ch 1, skip 1. *Hdc 3, Ch 1, Sk 1*, rep around until last two stitches. Hdc 2 in last 2 sts. Slip stitch to top of first hdc. (114 sts). [This is the round through which we will be weaving in the straps later on.]
R10: Repeat R4.
R11-14: Repeat R5.
Switch to 2.75 mm hook,
R15: Chain 1, work reverse single crochet or crab stitch around. (114 sts). Fasten off
Bottom Edging
Flip backpack upside down and repeat Rounds 1-8 of Top Edging. DO NOT CUT the working yarn of the bottom edging as we will be using this yarn to slip stitch the bottom edging to the bottom of the backpack.
Bottom of Backpack (Rectangles- make 2)
Using 3.75 mm hook and working in turned rows,
Chain 42.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook, sc across. (41 sts)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, sc across. (41 sts)
R3-19: Repeat Row 2.
Seam two rectangles together along four sides using running stitch, leaving front and back loops of long edges untouched (for these sides, work running stitch under first row of sts).
Use stitch markers to attach bottom rectangles to tube. Locate the middle stitch of the tube (use center of the granny square as guide) and attach stitch marker to both the front and back centers of the tube. Attach these stitch markers to the 21st stitch of the rectangle (both top and bottom as this is the exact center of the rectangle). Count 20 stitches away from center stitch marker and attach corners of rectangle to corresponding stitches of the tube (repeat for all 4 corners). Add 2 more stitch markers to attach short edges of rectangles to short edges of backpack. Using working yarn from bottom edging, begin slip stitching bottom rectangles to bottom edging, matching up stitches along the way. Insert crochet hook through front and back loops of bottom edging and front and back loops of both rectangles, yarn over, and pull through all loops. Continue in this manner around until entire perimeter of rectangle has been attached to the tube.
Strap
Using 2.75 mm hook and leaving long initial end of 37”/94 cm,
Chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook, sc 6.
We will now begin crocheting in continuous rounds. Make sure the wrong side is facing outwards, so we will be working counter-clockwise. The wrong side or back side of single crochets has horizontal bars (these horizontal bars are not visible on the right or correct side of the stitches).
Rather than working in the front or back loops as we typically do, we will be working in these horizontal bars.
Round 2: Single crochet in horizontal bars around. (6 sc)
Repeat Round 2 until strap measures 55.5”/141 cm. Keep in mind that the strap will stretch a bit with wear.
Once desired length is achieved, fasten off and leave long 37”/94 cm end.
Weaving in Strap
- We will be weaving in the strap through Round 9 of the top edging. In Round 9, there are 28 holes or Chain 1 spaces.
- Starting from the center back (where each round begins and ends with slip stitch) and working clockwise, place a stitch marker above the following holes: 3, 13, 17, 27.
- When front of backpack is facing you, insert each end of the strap through the 13th and 17th hole. Weave each end through every second hole. Each end will permanently exit the backpack (so ends are facing outwards) at the 3rd and 27th hole.
- Using long initial ends, whip stitch each end of the strap to the bottom left and right corners of the backpack securely. Attach them at the point where the bottom rectangles were whip stitched to the bottom edging. For extra security, flip backpack inside out. Use yarn needle and weave both strap ends through the bottom rectangles so they meet at the center. Tie multiple knots and weave in ends.
Interior Cell Phone Pocket
{This pocket measures 5”/12.7 cm wide, 6”/15 cm long – adjust as necessary to fit your own cell phone.}
Using 3.75 mm hook and working in turned rows,
Chain 22.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook, Sc across. (21 sts)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, sc across. (21 sts)
R3-35: Repeat Row 2.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Use running stitch and attach cell phone pocket to inside of back panel, attaching down one side, along the bottom, and up the other side of the pocket.
Tassel (optional)
- Cut 25 strands of yarn approximately 16”/41 cm in length (can wrap around hardcover book to get consistent lengths).
- Fold strands in half. Cut 20”/51 cm strand of yarn and tie top of tassel to form a loop extending from the top (so tassel can be attached to backpack later on) and hide ends with rest of strands.
- Wrap various colors of embroidery floss along strands to add pops of color, leaving 0.75”/2 cm at top. We wrapped 3 different colors approximately 0.4”/1 cm in length each.
- Wrap packing tape around bottom of tassel. Cut along edge of tape to trim edges. Loop tassel through strap.
- Final tassel length: 7”/18 cm
Congratulations, your beautiful Wildrose Backpack is complete!