Crochet your own baby bunny with adorable cheeks and floppy ears in a sweet and cuddly pose! This amigurumi rabbit is the perfect gift for bunny lovers and those born in the Year of the Rabbit!
Finished Dimensions: 4”/10 cm tall, 3”/7.6 cm wide (at head with ears)
Materials
- Chainette Yarn (worsted weight level 4) in “Ecru” (~22 g/51 yds) and “Beige” (~5 g/11.5 yds); this yarn is 80% Baby Alpaca, 18% Virgin Wool and 12% Polyamide. Choose a yarn that can be fuzzed up with a dog slicker brush (has some natural fibers in it or acrylic yarn that has a halo to it).
- 2.00 mm Clover Amour Hook
- Yarn needle (bent tip helpful for attaching amigurumi parts- see HERE)
- Lock ring stitch markers
- Fiberfill
- 9 mm safety eyes
- Pink embroidery floss for nose/mouth & leg paws
- Dog slicker brush
Notes:
- Please note which yarn color you are working with for each body part and when you need to switch colors.
- For a cleaner color change when switching yarn colors, work last stitch in old color: work as if typical single crochet until two loops are left on the hook (i.e. insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop). Use new color to yarn over and pull through both loops. Work slip stitch in next stitch using new color. Then continue crocheting single crochets as normal with new color.
- The head is shaped uniquely to create a protruding forehead and puffy cheeks. One forehead and two cheek pieces are seamed together. Stitches are worked around this joined piece to become the rest of the head.
- Eye indentation is used which involves pulling the safety eyes back to give more depth.
- Using a dog slicker brush gives a beautifully soft brushed effect to this amigurumi bunny! It is recommended to fuzz up each body part individually before seaming them together. The body parts are positioned and seamed together in a special cuddly pose so that the bunny can rest in your hands.
- When stuffing any narrow tubes, such as the legs, you can use a chopstick or bottom of the crochet hook to push the fiberfill in.
- Inc (increase) = Work 2 sc in the next stitch. [1 stitch becomes 2 stitches.]
- Dec (I use the invisible decrease): Insert hook into front loops of the next two stitches. Yarn over and draw through first two loops. Yarn over and draw through remaining two loops.
Finished Dimensions: 4”/10 cm tall, 3”/7.6 cm wide (at head with ears)
PATTERN:
The head is formed by crocheting one forehead and two cheeks. These three pieces are seamed together, and then stitches are picked up around this joined piece to continue building the head. Set aside two 14”/36 cm strands of ecru yarn for eye indentation.
Cheeks (make 2):
Using ecru yarn,
- R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
- R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
- R3: Sc 1, Inc, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1. (16 sts)
Sl st to next st. Fasten off and leave long end for seaming. Note that each cheek has 16 stitches.
Forehead:
Using ecru yarn,
- R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
- R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
- R3: Sc 1, Inc x 3, Sc 3, Inc x 3, Sc 2. (18 sts)
- R4: Sc 2, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 3, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 3. (24 sts)
- R5-6: Sc 24. (24 sts)
DO NOT fasten off. Place stitch marker in last stitch. We will use the working yarn to continue crocheting the head later on. Note that the forehead has 24 stitches.
It is now time to join the forehead to the two cheeks. You will join these pieces together in three steps as shown in the diagram:
Step 1: Place Cheek 1 below the forehead so Yarn Tail 1 is in the correct position. Use the yarn tail to seam 4 stitches of the cheek to 4 stitches of the forehead (go from right to left in the direction of the arrow). Use the whip stitch to seam the two outer loops of the stitches together. Note that stitches #10, 11, 12 and 13 of the forehead (when counting from the stitch marker, moving counter-clockwise) will be attached to the four stitches of Cheek 1.
Step 2: Place Cheek 2 below the forehead and to the right of Cheek 1. In the same manner, use Yarn Tail 2 to seam 4 stitches of the cheek to 4 stitches of the forehead (go from right to left in the direction of the arrow). Note that stitches #14, 15, 16 and 17 of the forehead will be attached to the four stitches of Cheek 2. You will continue using this yarn tail for Step 3.
(The picture below shows what the piece looks like after Steps 1 & 2 have been completed.)
Step 3: Using the same Yarn Tail 2 from Step 2, seam 2 stitches of the cheeks together, going downwards (from top to bottom as shown in the direction of the arrow).
In total, 6 stitches of each cheek have been used for attaching (4 stitches to the forehead and 2 stitches to other cheek). This leaves 10 stitches of each cheek that have not been attached (16 – 6 = 10).
(The picture below shows what the piece looks like after all three steps have been completed.)
You can tie the initial/final ends together to secure them in place (they will be hidden within the head). The three pieces have been joined together. Now we will continue building up the head using the working yarn from the forehead (where stitch marker is located).
Head:
Continuing from the joined pieces and using the working yarn from the forehead,
- R1: Sc 9 around forehead, Sc 10 around Cheek 1, Sc 10 around Cheek 2, and Sc 7 around rest of forehead. (36 sts)
- R2: Sc 7, Dec, rep 4 times. (32 sts)
- R3-6: Sc 32. (32 sts)
- R7: Sc 6, Dec, rep 4 times. (28 sts)
- R8: Sc 28. (28 sts)
- R9: Sc 5, Dec, rep 4 times. (24 sts)
- R10: Sc 24. (24 sts)
Begin fuzzing up head with dog slicker brush.
Place eyes at junction of forehead with cheeks, about 7 stitches apart. Do not snap in the washers yet.
It is now time to do the eye indentation. Use the ecru yarn strands you set aside at the beginning and tie knots around the post of each safety eye (as shown in Number 1 in collage below). Snap in the washers (Number 2). Number 3 shows how there are 4 strands exiting the head for now.
Have the strands cross each other inside the head and have them exit out towards the bottom of the head (our strands exited between Rounds 3 and 4 of the head, about 4 stitches apart). Ensure that both strands from the SAME safety eye are in close proximity to each other when they exit the bottom of the head to make it easier to tie a knot (but they should not come out of the same hole). After this is done, you should have 4 strands of yarn coming out the bottom of the head, each exiting from their own hole.
Stuff head densely, making sure there is stuffing above and below the crisscrossed eye indentation strands. Ensure there is enough stuffing in both cheeks and the forehead. Pull the yarn strands back to check that you like the look of the eye indentation. You can adjust as needed by stuffing the head more/less or by repositioning the yarn strands higher or lower. It is important to check this before continuing on and finishing off the head as this cannot be corrected after the head has been closed off in the next rounds.
Use pink embroidery floss to embroider a “T” for the nose/mouth. We positioned the nose around the last round of the forehead where it joins with the cheeks.
- R11: Dec, rep 12 times. (12 sts)
Finish stuffing.
- R12: Dec, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off working yarn, then thread yarn tail through front loops of last remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight and hide end. Finish fuzzing up the rest of the head with a dog slicker brush.
Finish off the eye indentation: grab the two strands of yarn that correlate with one safety eye. Pull back to desired indentation and tie a double knot to secure. Repeat with other eye. At the end, you can tie all the ends together (as shown in right picture of collage below). Weave in ends.
Body
Using ecru yarn,
Ch 3 (this is the foundation chain),
- R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 1 in back loop of foundation chain. Work 2 sc in last stitch. Turn the chain, Sc 1 in front loop of foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain]. (4 sts)
- R2:* Inc*, rep 4 times. (8 sts)
- R3: Inc, rep 8 times. (16 sts)
- R4: Sc 3, Inc, rep 4 times. (20 sts)
- R5-11: Sc 20. (20 sts)
- R12: Sc 3, Dec, rep 4 times. (16 sts)
- R13-14: Sc 16. (16 sts)
We will now begin shaping the neck and back by stacking increases and decreases on certain sides.
- R15: Dec x 3. Sc 3, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 1, Inc, Sc 2. (16 sts)
- R16: Dec x 2, Sc 4, Inc, Sc 2, Inc, Sc 4. (16 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end. Fuzz up body with dog slicker brush. Stuff body and seam body to head so that the head is tilting down.
Thighs (make 2):
Using ecru yarn,
Ch 4 (this is the foundation chain),
- R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 2 in back loops of foundation chain. Work 2 sc in last stitch. Turn the chain then Sc 2 in front loops of foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain]. (6 sts)
- R2: Inc, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
- R3: Sc 1, Inc, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
- R4: Sc 18. (18 sts)
- R5: Sc 1, Dec, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end. Fuzz up thighs using dog slicker brush. You do not need to stuff the thighs.
Seam thighs to either side of the body so they are tilted at an angle as shown in collage.
Legs (make 2):
Using beige yarn,
- R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
- R2: Sc 6. (6 sts)
- R3: Sc 1, Inc, rep 3 times. (9 sts)
- R4: Sc 9. (9 sts)
Switch to ecru yarn,
- R5-8: Sc 9. (9 sts)
- R9: Sc 1, Dec, rep 3 times. (6 sts)
- R10-11: Sc 6. (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end. Fuzz up legs using dog slicker brush. Stuff lightly.
Using pink embroidery floss, embroider three lines onto the paws of the legs.
Seam legs in front of thighs at the front of the body so that the legs stick up as shown in the collage later on.
Arms (make 2):
Using beige yarn,
- R1: 5 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
- R2: Sc 5. (5 sts)
Switch to ecru yarn,
- R3-9: Sc 5. (5 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end. Fuzz up arms using dog slicker brush. Do not stuff.
Seam arms on either side of body. Position the arms so that the paws come together towards the centre of the body.
Ears (make 2):
Note that the ears are worked in turned rows, not rounds.
Using beige yarn,
Ch 5
- Row 1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 4. (4 sts)
- Row 2: Chain 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, Sc 1, Inc x 2, Sc 1. (6 sts)
- R3-5: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, Sc 6. (6 sts)
- R6: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, Sc 1, Dec, Dec, Sc 1. (4 sts)
- R7-8: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, Sc 4. (4 sts)
- R9: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, Dec x 2. (2 sts)
- R10: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, Sc 2. (2 sts)
- R11: Ch 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, Dec. (1 st)
We will now crochet around the ear to provide a smooth edge.
Chain 1, slip stitch 11 down one side of ear, slip stitch 4 across bottom of ear, slip stitch 11 back up the other side of the ear.
Fasten off and leave long end. Fuzz up ears using dog slicker brush. Fold in half and seam onto either side of head. We positioned our ears so the tops were between Rounds 5 and 6 of the head, about 7 stitches apart.
Tail:
Using ecru yarn,
- R1: 4 sc in Magic Ring. (4 sts)
- R2: Sc 1, Inc, rep 2 times. (6 sts)
- R3: Sc 6. (6 sts)
- R4: Sc 1, Dec, rep 2 times. (4 sts)
Congratulations, your cuddly little bunny is complete! Enjoy all these amigurumi patterns, everyone! It has been such a joy to design them year by year, and I am thankful we managed to keep up the tradition and complete the series!