Crochet Sweater – I believe that everyone of us has a basic aspiration related to creativity. Whether it’s running a family, daily problem-solving, or designing your own clothes; everyone of us is meant to produce something for ourselves in the context of our life. In these pages, perhaps, you will uncover trends that motivate you and guide you to produce works you adore. For shoutmecraft has always been about much more than simply crochet and knitting.
SKILL LEVEL : Intermediate
MATERIALS
- 4, (4, 5, 5, 6), (6, 7, 7, 7) balls / 840, (900, 960, 1150, 1220), (1280, 1490, 1550, 1610) yards Lion Brand
- Coboo Yarn in Mauve
- Size US 7 (4.5 mm) 32” circular knitting needles
- Size US 5 (3.75 mm) 32” circular knitting needles
- Tapestry Needle to weave in ends
DIMENSIONS
- XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
- Finished Bust/Chest Circumference: 36, (40, 44, 48, 52), (56, 60, 64, 68)”
- Finished Length: 21.5, (21.5, 21.5, 23.25, 23.25), (23.25, 25, 25, 25)” Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.
GAUGE
- 20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on size US 7 (4.5 mm) needles
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
- This sweater is worked in the round from the bottom, up. You will separate to work front and back flat and then join at the shoulders. Sleeves will be worked by picking up stitches around the arm opening and knitting flat.
ABBREVIATIONS (Knitting):
This pattern is written using U.S. English terminology
- AC = accent color BO = bind off
- CO = cast on K = knit
- K2TOG = knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased) K3TOG = knit 3 stitches together (2 stitches decreased) K2TOGTBL = knit 2 stitches together through the back loop (1 stitch decreased)
- K3TOGTBL = knit 3 stitches together through the back loop (2 stitches decreased)
- MC = main color
- M1L = make one left. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from front to back, knit through the back.
- M1R = make one right. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from back to front, knit through the front.
- P = purl
- PM = place marker RS = right side
- SL1 = slip 1 stitch purl-wise (as if to purl)
- SSK = slip the next 2 sts knitwise, then knit them together through the back loops ( 1 st decreased)
- SSSK = slip the next 3 sts knitwise, then knit them together through the back loop (2 sts decreased)
- WS = wrong side
- W&T = wrap and turn, a short row technique: on a knit row, slip the next st to the right hand needle, pass yarn from back to front, slip stitch back to left hand needle. Turn to work other side, passing yarn to front of work. On a purl row, slip next st to the right hand needle, pass yarn from front to back, slip stitch back to left needle. Turn to work other side pass- ing yarn to back of work. Keep snug so your wrap stays tight.
- YO = yarn over
ABBREVIATIONS (Crochet):
This pattern is written using U.S. English terminology
- [ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed.
- ( ) = work instructions within parenthesis as directed.
- * = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.
- BLO = back loop only CH = chain stitch
- DC = double crochet
- GAP SP = gap space, this is referring to the gap that is creat- ed between each double crochet cluster
- HDC = half double crochet RS = right side
- SC = single crochet SLST = slip stitch SP = space
- ST = stitch STS = stitches
- WS = wrong side
HELP CHOOSING SIZE
This top is designed to be worn with 6-8” of positive ease. Model is 6’ tall, has a 33” bust, and is wear- ing a size Small with 7” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 6-8” larger than your corre- sponding bust measurement. For example, if your bust is 45”, you would wear a size XL.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
Using size 5 needles, CO 180 (200, 220, 240, 260)
(280, 300, 320, 340) sts using long tail tubular cast on method.
Join to work in round. PM to denote beg/end of each round.
Work in k1, p1 rib stitch until piece measures 1.5” from CO edge.
On the next round, switch to size 7 needles. Work in round in stockinette stitch until piece measures 14” from CO edge. You may work more or less at this point to make the body of your sweater longer or shorter.
Separate Front and Back:
You will now split the body into the front and the back. Each piece will be worked flat separately and then joined at the shoulders.
1: BO 4 sts, k86 (96, 106, 116, 126) (136, 146,156, 166), BO 4 sts, k to end of round. Turn.
Right Front:
You will now work back and forth across the first 43, (48, 53, 58, 63), (68, 73, 78, 83) sts to shape the right front.
2 (WS): p40 (45, 50, 55, 60), (65, 70, 75, 80) sts,k1, p1, sl1 p-wise. [43, (48, 53, 58, 63), (68, 73,78, 83) sts].
3 (RS): k2, p1, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. [41, (46,51, 56, 61), (66, 71, 76, 81) sts].
4: p to last 3, k1, p1, sl1 p-wise.
Repeat rows 3-4 twice more. [37, (42, 47, 52, 57),(62, 67, 72, 77) sts].
5: k2, p1, ssk, k to end of row. [36, (41, 46, 51,56), (61, 66, 71, 76) sts].
6: p to last 3, k1, p1, sl1 p-wise.
Repeat rows 5-6 eleven more times [25, (30, 35,40, 45), (50, 55, 60, 65) sts].
7: k2, p1, k to end of row.
8: p to last 3, k1, p1, sl1 p-wise.
9: k2, p1, ssk, k to end of row. [24, (29, 34, 39,44), (49, 54, 59, 64) sts].
10: p to last 3, k1, p1, sl1.
Repeat rows 7-10 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 5, 5, 5) more times. [22, (27, 32, 36, 41), (46, 49, 54, 59) sts].
Then, repeat rows 7-8 0 (0, 0, 4, 4), (4, 6, 6, 6) more times.
11: k2, p1, k3 (4, 5, 4, 5) (6, 6, 7, 8), W&T.
12: p to last 3, k1, p1, sl1.
13: k2, p1, k7 (9, 11, 11, 13) (15, 16, 17, 19), W&T.
14: as 12.
15: k2, p1, k11 (14, 17, 18, 21) (24, 26, 27, 30), W&T.
16: as 12.
17: k2, p1, k15, (19, 23, 25, 29) (33, 36, 37, 41), W&T.
18: as 12.
19: k2, p1, k to end of row.
Break yarn leaving a tail to weave in later. Set aside on stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Left Front:
You will now work back and forth across the re- maining 43, (48, 53, 58, 63), (68, 73, 78, 83) sts to shape the left front.
2 (WS): sl1, p1, k1, p40 (45, 50, 55, 60), (65, 70,75, 80), turn. [43, (48, 53, 58, 63), (68, 73, 78, 83) sts].
3 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 5, k2tog, p1, k2. [41, (46,
51, 56, 61), (66, 71, 76, 81) sts].
4: sl1, p1, k1, p to end of row.
Repeat rows 3-4 twice more [37, (42, 47, 52, 57),(62, 67, 72, 77) sts].
5: k to last 5, k2tog, p1, k2. [36, (41, 46, 51, 56),(61, 66, 71, 76) sts].
6: sl1, p1, k1, p to end of row.
Repeat rows 5-6 eleven more times. [25, (30, 35,40, 45), (50, 55, 60, 65) sts].
7: k to last 3, p1, k2.
8: sl1, p1, k1, p to end.
9: k to last 5, k2tog, p1, k2. [24, (29, 34, 39, 44),(49, 54, 59, 64) sts].
10: sl1, p1, k1, p to end.
Repeat rows 7-10 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 4, 4, 4) more times. [23, (28, 33, 37, 42), (47, 50, 55, 60) sts].
Next, repeat rows 7-9 once more. [22, (27, 32, 36, 41), (46, 49, 54, 59) sts].
Then, work 0, (0, 0, 8, 8) (8, 10, 10, 10) more rows even (as rows 7-8) ending with a RS row.
11: sl1, p1, k1, p3 (4, 5, 4, 5) (6, 6, 7, 8), W&T.
12: k to last 3, p1, k2.
13: sl1, p1, k1, p7 (9, 11, 11, 13) (15, 16, 17, 19), W&T.
14: as 12.
15: sl1, p1, k1, p11 (14, 17, 18, 21) (24, 26, 27, 30), W&T.
16: as 12.
17: sl1, p1, k1, p15 (19, 23, 25, 29) (33, 36, 37, 41), W&T.
18: as 12.
19: sl1, p1, k1, p to end of row.
20: k to last 3, p1, k2.
Break yarn leaving a tail to weave in later. Set aside on stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Back:
Begin working the 86, (96, 106, 116, 126), (136, 146, 156, 166) sts set aside to shape the back. You will work the back sts flat as done for the front.
2 (WS): purl.
3 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. [84, (94, 104, 114, 124), (134, 144, 154, 164) sts].
Repeat rows 2-3 twice more. [80, (90, 100, 110, 120), (130, 140, 150, 160) sts].
4: purl.
5: knit.
Repeat rows 4-5 until back piece measures 4.5 (4.5, 4.5, 6.25, 6,25) (6.25, 8, 8, 8)” from underarm.
6: p29 (34, 39, 43, 48) (53, 56, 61, 66), k22 (22, 22, 24, 24) (24, 28, 28, 28), p29 (34, 39, 43, 48)
(53, 56, 61, 66).
7: p24 (29, 34, 38, 43) (48, 51, 56, 61), k2tog, p1, k2, BO next 22, (22, 22, 24, 24), (24, 28, 28, 28)
sts in knit, k2, p1, ssk, k to end of row.
You will now have 28, (33, 38, 42, 47), (52, 55, 60, 65) sts for the right and left shoulder, and 22, (22, 22, 24, 24), (24, 28, 28, 28) bound off stitches in the center.
Left Back:
Begin working flat across the first 28, (33, 38, 42, 47), (52, 55, 60, 65) sts to shape left back shoul- der.
8: p to last 3, k1, p1, sl1.
9: k2, p1, ssk, k to end of row. [27, (32, 37, 41, 46), (51, 54, 59, 64) sts].
Repeat rows 8-9 once more. [26, (31, 36, 40, 45), (50, 53, 58, 63) sts].
10: p to last 3, k1, p1, sl1.
11: k2, p1, ssk, k5 (6, 7, 6, 7) (8, 8, 9, 10), W&T. [25, (30, 35, 39, 44), (49, 52, 57, 62) sts].
12: as 10.
13: k2, p1, ssk, k8 (10, 12, 12, 14) (16, 17, 18, 20), W&T. [24, (29, 34, 38, 43), (48, 51, 56, 61) sts].
14: as 10.
15: k2, p1, ssk, k11 (14, 17, 18, 21) (24, 26, 27, 30), W&T. [23, (28, 33, 37, 42), (47, 50, 55, 60) sts].
16: as 10.
17: k2, p1, ssk, k14 (18, 22, 24, 28) (32, 35, 36, 40), W&T. [22, (27, 32, 36, 41), (46, 49, 54, 59)sts].
19: as 10.
20: k2, p1, k to end of row.
Break yarn leaving a tail to weave in later. Set aside on stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Right Back:
Begin working flat across the 28, (33, 38, 42, 47), (52, 55, 60, 65) sts set aside for right back shoul- der.
8: sl1, p1, k1, p to end of row. Turn.
9: k to last 5, k2tog, p1, k2. [27, (32, 37, 41, 46), (51, 54, 59, 64) sts].
Repeat rows 8-9 once more. [26, (31, 36, 40, 45), (50, 53, 58, 63) sts].
10: sl1, p1, k1, p7 (8, 9, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11, 12), W&T.
11: k to last 5, k2tog, p1, k2. [25, (30, 35, 39, 44), (49, 52, 57, 62) sts].
12: sl1, p1, k1, p10 (12, 14, 14, 16) (18, 19, 20, 22), W&T.
13: as 11. [24, (29, 34, 38, 43), (48, 51, 56, 61) sts].
14: sl1, p1, k1, p13 (16, 19, 20, 23) (26, 28, 29, 32), W&T.
15: as 11. [23, (28, 33, 37, 42), (47, 50, 55, 60) sts].
16: sl1, p1, k1, p16 (20, 24, 26, 30) (34, 37, 38, 42), turn work, GSR.
17: as 11. [22, (27, 32, 36, 41), (46, 49, 54, 59) sts].
18: sl1, p1, k1, p to end.
19: k to last 3, p1, k2.
Shoulder Seams:
Now, you will arrange your work so that the sts set aside for each the right and left front shoulders, line up with the stitches for the right and left back shoulders to complete your shoulder seams. With the RS of the front facing you, work a three needle bind off at the top of each shoulder on the outside of your work.
Sleeves:
To work the sleeves, you will pick up stitches around the armhole opening and work the sleeve flat using size 7 needles. The first couple rows may be tight, you can use to circular needles or double pointed needles to help with the tightness if you prefer.
1: With RS facing you and beginning at the center of underarm, pick up 3 sts on the left side of the underarm, pick up 34 (34, 34, 43, 43) (43, 52, 52, 52) sts along the side of the shoulder up to the three needle bind off, pick up 34 (34, 34, 43, 43) (43, 52, 52, 52) sts along the opposite side of the shoulder to the underarm, and pick up 3 more sts on the right side of the underarm. [74, (74, 74, 92, 92), (92, 110, 110, 110) sts total].
2: (WS): purl.
3: (RS): k1, *(k2tog) 3x, (YO, k1) 6x, (k2tog) 3x. Rep from * to last st, k1.
4: knit.
5: knit.
6: purl.
7: k1, *(k2tog) 3x, (YO, k1) 6x, (k2tog) 3x. Rep from * to last st, k1.
8: knit.
Repeat rows 5-8 sixteen more times. NOTE: You may work more or less at this point to make your sleeve longer or shorter, end the repeats when you sleeve is 5” less than your desired length.
9: knit
10: purl.
11: k3, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 7, (k2tog) 2x, k3. [76, (76, 76, 94, 94), (94, 112, 112, 112) sts total].
12-14: as 4-6.
15: k4, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6x, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 8, (k2tog) 2x, k4. [78, (78, 78, 96, 96), (96, 114, 114, 114) sts total].
16-18: as 4-6.
19: k5, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6x, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 9, (k2tog) 2x, k5. [80, (80, 80, 98, 98), (98, 116, 116, 116) sts total].
20-22: as 4-6.
23: k6, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6x, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 10, (k2tog) 2x, k6. [82, (82, 82, 100, 100), (100, 118, 118, 118) sts total].
24-26: as 4-6.
27: k7, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6x, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 11, (k2tog) 2x, k7. [84, (84, 84, 102, 102), (102, 120, 120, 120) sts total]. 28-30: as 4-6.
31: k8, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6x, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 12, (k2tog) 2x, k8. [86, (86, 86, 104, 104), (104, 122, 122, 122) sts total].
32-34: as 4-6.
35: k9, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6x, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 13, (k2tog) 2x, k9. [88, (88, 88, 106, 106), (106, 124, 124, 124) sts total].
36-38: as 4-6.
39: k10, (k2tog) 2x, (yo, k1) 6x, *(k2tog) 6x, (yo, k1) 6x. Rep from * to last 14, (k2tog) 2x, k10. [90, (90, 90, 108, 108), (108, 126, 126, 126) sts total].
40: knit.
Bind off in knit.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing:
Sew the sleeve seams using mattress stitch. Weave in all ends to secure.
To block, soak in warm water and lay flat to dry. Enjoy!