Crochet Pattern Tulip Lace Cardigan

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The Tulip Lace Cardigan is worked in one piece, folded and sewed together. After sewing the sides together you’ll add a border.

  • Skill level: Easy
  • The garment in the pictures is in size S.
  • This pattern is written using US terminology.
Supplies 
  • Recommended Yarn: We Crochet Comfy
    Worsted (75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylics) or
    other Worsted / 10 ply / 9 wpi / 4 – weight
    yarn. Sample made in color Clarity. Preferably
    cotton or cotton blend.
  • Yarn usage: 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11) skeins
  • Crochet hook size: 5 mm / H-8 and optional
    5.5 mm / I-9
  • Tapestry needle to weave ends
  • Stitch markers or similar
Sizes 
This pattern is written in nine sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL. Stitch count for
the different sizes is in the following order in the parentheses after each row in the pattern:
For example:
24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL , 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) sts
You will find the size guide on the next page
Abbreviations
  • Ch Chain
  • Sts Stitches
  • DC Double crochet
  • TR Treble crochet
  • Sp Space
  • SC Single crochet
  • Yo Yarn over
  • Sm Stitch marker
SIZE GUIDE
Note! The measurements below are the measurements of the final garment size. Your
own measurements should be at least 5 cm / 2” smaller, positive ease. If you prefer a mor
loose fit, go up a size

PATTERN

Gauge swatch
Begin by checking your gauge. This is to ensure that your cardigan gets the correct size
and therefore it is crucial that your swatch is the same measurements as in the pattern. If
you prefer a chart, see next page.
With the 5 mm / H-8 hook: Chain 21
  • Row 1: In the 6th chain from the hook (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), *skip next 5 ch, (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc)
    in next ch* rep *-* from across until 3 last ch of the row. Skip next 2 ch, dc in last ch,
    turn.
  • Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the last dc from previous row, *ch 3, dc in next ch 2 – space, ch 3,
    skip next 2 dc, sc between last skipped and next dc* rep *-* across, ending with a sc in
    top of turning ch, turn.
  • Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), skip next ch-3 loop, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc, *skip next 2
    ch-3 loops, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc* rep *-* across to within last ch-3 loop, skip next
    ch-3 loop, tr in last sc, turn.
  • Row 4-7: Repeat row 2-3.

CHART

Following this chart gives the gauge swatch

Back section

Begin with the back section.
With the hook you reached gauge with: Chain 69 (75, 81, 87, 99, 105, 111, 117, 129)
  • Row 1: In the 6th chain from the hook (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), *skip next 5 ch, (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in
    next ch* rep *-* from across until 3 last ch of the row. Skip next 2 ch, dc in last ch, turn.
  • Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the last dc from previous row, *ch 3, dc in next ch 2 – space, ch 3, skip
    next 2 dc, sc between last skipped and next dc* rep *-* across, ending with a sc in top of
    turning ch, turn.
  • Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), skip next ch-3 loop, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc, *skip next 2
    ch-3 loops, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc* rep *-* across to within last ch-3 loop, skip next
    ch-3 loop, tr in last sc, turn.
  • Row 4-26: Repeat row 2-3. Do not fasten off, continue with the sleeves.
If you want a longer cardigan, make more rows
here. Make sure to end on an even number row
and to add the same amount of rows on the
front.

Sleeves

In the end of row 26, ch 27 (27, 27, 27, 33, 33, 33, 33, 33). Leave this for now.

Attach a new yarn on the other edge / corner, ch 24 (24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30) and
cut off yarn and pull through.
In the 6th chain from the hook (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), *skip next 5 ch, (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in
next ch* rep *-* from across until 4 last chains (Picture A on next page). Skip the chains
and continue in next dc with (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)(Picture B), *skip next 2 ch-3 loops, (2 dc,
ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc* rep *-* across to last ch-3 loop before your 24/30 chains (Picture
C). Skip the ch-3 loop and 3 of the following chains. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) (Picture D), *skip
next 5 ch, (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch* rep *-* from across until 3 last ch of the row. Skip
next 2 ch, dc in last ch (Picture E), turn.
Row 2 – 10 (12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 18): Repeat row 2-3. Do not fasten off. Continue
with shoulder 1 and front 1.

Shoulder 1 and Front 1

Shoulder 1
Put a sm in the sc after the 9 (9, 10, 10, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15)th dc from each edge. On some
sizes this leaves 2 arches in between the stitch markers, on others 1.
Continue from the sleeve section with a row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), skip next ch-3 loop, (2
dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc, *skip next 2 ch-3 loops, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc* rep *-*
across to within last ch-3 loop, skip next ch-3 loop, tr in sc with the sm, turn.
  • Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the last dc from previous row, *ch 3, dc in next ch 2 – space, ch 3, skip
    next 2 dc, sc between last skipped and next dc* rep *-* across, ending with a sc in top of
    turning ch, turn.
  • Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), skip next ch-3 loop, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc, *skip next 2
    ch-3 loops, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc* rep *-* across to within last ch-3 loop, skip next
    ch-3 loop, tr in last sc, turn.
Repeat row 2-3 until you’ve made a total of 11 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17, 17) rows for the
shoulder (i.e. the total number of rows for sleeves are 21 (23, 27, 27, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35)). Do
not fasten off. Continue with the front.
Front 1  
 
Put a sm after the 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10)th arch from the center edge (between 2 dcs).
Make a row 2, ending with a sc where the sm is. Turn.
Continue repeating row 3 and 2 until you’ve made a total of 26 rows (or more if you made it
longer on the back section). Fasten off.

Shoulder 2 and Front 2

Shoulder 2
Continue from the second sm you placed in the shoulder 1 section. Attach your yarn with a
slip knot. Continue with a row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), skip next ch-3 loop, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)
in next dc, *skip next 2 ch-3 loops, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc* rep *-* across to within last
ch-3 loop, skip next ch-3 loop, tr in last sc, turn.
  • Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the last dc from previous row, *ch 3, dc in next ch 2 – space, ch 3, skip
    next 2 dc, sc between last skipped and next dc* rep *-* across, ending with a sc in top of
    turning ch, turn.
  • Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), skip next ch-3 loop, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc, *skip next 2
    ch-3 loops, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc* rep *-* across to within last ch-3 loop, skip next
    ch-3 loop, tr in last sc, turn.
Repeat row 2-3 until you’ve made a total of 11 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17, 17) rows for the
shoulder (i.e. the total number of rows for sleeves are 21 (23, 27, 27, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35)).
Fasten off. Continue with the front.
Front 2
Put a sm after the 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10)th arch from the center (between 2 dcs). Attach
your yarn with a slip knot. Continue with a row 2: Ch 1, sc in the last dc from previous
row, *ch 3, dc in next ch 2 – space, ch 3, skip next 2 dc, sc between last skipped and
next dc* rep *-* across, ending with a sc in top of turning ch, turn.
Continue repeating row 3 and 2 until you’ve made a total of 26 rows (or more if you made
it longer on the back section). Fasten off.

Sewing

Fold the front section over the back section so that the sleeves are folded in half as well. Use
the mattress stitch to sew it. It is sewn on the right side like lacing a shoelace. Go under the
loop of on the other side, pull tight. Cross over to other side going under a loop. Repeat
across.

Ribbing / Border

Neckline
Attach your yarn in the middle of the neckline on the back side. Use the larger hook
size, 5.5 mm / I-9. Crochet sc all the way around the neckline, making sure to keep
the right side out. In the 2 bottom corners, crochet 2 sc. This is so that the corners do
not curl. Try to crochet your sc as evenly as possible. When you reach the beginning,
sl st in the first sc of the round. Ch 1. Turn.
Row 2-3: Sc around, making 2 sc in the bottom corners. Sl st to the first sc of the
round. Ch 1. Turn. Fasten off after round 3.

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