Crochet Pattern The Palmar Pullover

Pop on the oversized Palmar Pullover for all your summer adventures! This mesh style top is worked from the bottom up with 2 different yarn colors. It features a baggy fit and extra long sleeves so you
have the option of cuffing! The neckline is nice and wide so you can wear it off the shoulder!

Materials:

  • • Worsted Weight Yarn, Lion Brand Pima Cotton in Seaglass (2(3, 3,
  • 4,4) skeins (350(430, 510, 570, 630 yards) and Vintage (2(3, 3, 4,
  • 4)skeins 350(430, 510, 570, 630 yards)
  • • H/5mm Crochet Hook
  • • Needle
  • • Scissors
  • • Stitch Markers (2)

Gauge:

3 pattern repeats by 7 rows= 4×4” square

Note- 1 pattern repeat is 1 picot and 1 Ch-5 Sp

Sizes:

XS(S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X)

Finished Measurements: 

Crochet Pattern The Palmar Pullover

Notes:

  • This top is worked in 4 separate panels, from the bottom up.
  • This pattern is written in 5 different sizes- XS(S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X).
  • Your picot is worked into the actual Ch, not the Ch Sp.
  • You will be switching your yarn colors out every 2 rows, beginning with Color A. Be sure to pay attention and switch Color A and Color
  • B every 2 rows. You can use either color for the sewing and trim.
  • A pattern repeat is 1 picot and 1 Ch-5 Sp
  • Make sure to not work your starting chain too tightly. You want the starting chain to have a relaxed tension.
  • This is a really stretchy stitch! The Mesh stitch will stretch when worn so it will look longer and baggier when you have it on.
  • I recommend blocking your panels before sewing them together. This really helps with the drape and definition of the stitch! I like to steam block mine.
Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):
  • Ch- Chain
  • Sc- Single Crochet
  • Sk- Skip
  • Dc- Double Crochet
  • Sl St- Slip Stitch
  • Picot- Work (1 Sc, Ch 3, 1 Sc) all into the same Ch. One Picot counts as
  • one stitch
  • RS- Right Side
  • SM- Stitch Marker
  • Color A- Vintage
  • Color B- Seaglass
Video Link:

Pattern (Front Panel):

With Color A- Ch 70(78, 86, 94, 102) (do not chain too tightly, try to
keep a relaxed tension here)
Row 1 (RS): 1 Sc in 2nd Ch from the hook, *Ch 5, Sk 3 Ch, picot in
next Ch, repeat from * across until 4 Ch remain, Ch 5, 1 Sc in last Ch,
turn. (16(18, 20, 22, 24) picots)
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 Dc and Ch 2), *picot in 3rd Ch of next Ch-5
Sp, Ch 5, repeat from * across row until you reach the last Ch-5 Sp,
picot in 3rd Ch of last Ch-5 Sp, Ch 2, 1 Dc in last Sc, turn. (17(19, 21,
23, 25) picots)
Note- after row 2 is where you will bring in color B. Finish the last pull
through of the final Dc with your new color. From here on out, switch
your color A and color B every 2 rows. Do not cut and join your yarn,
simply pick up the yarn and bring it up to join. This will create floats
along the side of the panel which we will later seam over. Make sure not
to pull the floats tight.
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first Dc, *Ch 5, picot in 3rd Ch of next Ch-5 Sp,
repeat from * across row, Ch 5, 1 Sc in 3rd Ch of turning Ch, turn.
(16(18, 20, 22, 24) picots)
Rows 4-32(34, 36, 38, 40): Repeat Rows 2 & 3. You will end on a Row
2 repeat.

Neckline Shaping

Row 33(35, 37, 39, 41): Repeat Row 3 until you have 4(5, 6, 7, 8) picots
made, Ch 5, Sk over the next picot, work 1 Sc into the center Ch of the
following Ch-5 Sp, turn. (4(5, 6, 7, 8) picots)
Row 34(36, 38, 40, 41): Repeat Row 2. (5(6, 7, 8, 9) picots)
Row 35(37, 39, 41, 43): Repeat Row 3. (4(5, 6, 7, 8) picots)
Row 36(38, 40, 42, 44): Repeat Row 2. (5(6, 7, 8, 9) picots)
Row 37(39, 41, 43, 45): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, *Ch 3, Sk over the picot
and work 1 Sc into the center Ch of the next Ch-5 Sp, repeat from *
across row until you reach the last picot, Ch 3, Sk over last picot and
work 1 Sc in the 3rd Ch of turning Ch. (6(7, 8, 9, 10) Sc)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming shoulder to back panel.

Opposite Shoulder

Now we have to work the same shaping on the opposite side. Place your
panel in front of you with the completed shoulder on the right hand side.
Starting from the left side of Row 32(34, 36, 38, 40), count in a total of
5(6,7, 8, 9) picot stitches, in the following Ch-5 Sp, join yarn with a Sl
St into the center Ch of the Ch 5.
Row 33(35, 37, 39, 41): Ch 1, 1 Sc in same Ch as join, Ch 5, Sk next
picot, picot in center Ch of next Ch 5, continue with pattern repeat
across row, turn. (4(5, 6, 7, 8) picots)
Row 34(36, 38, 40, 41): Repeat Row 2. (5(6, 7, 8, 9) picots)
Row 35(37, 39, 41, 43): Repeat Row 3. (4(5, 6, 7, 8) picots)
Row 36(38, 40, 42, 44): Repeat Row 2. (5(6, 7, 8, 9) picots)
Row 37(39, 41, 43, 45): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, *Ch 3, Sk over the picot
and work 1 Sc into the center Ch of the next Ch-5 Sp, repeat from *
across row until you reach the last picot, Ch 3, Sk over last picot and
work 1 Sc in the 3rd Ch of turning Ch. (6(7, 8, 9, 10) Sc)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming shoulder to back panel.

Back Panel

With Color A- Ch 70(78, 86, 94, 102) (do not chain too tightly, try to
keep a relaxed tension here)
 
Row 1 (RS): 1 Sc in 2nd Ch from the hook, *Ch 5, Sk 3 Ch, picot in
next Ch, repeat from * across until 4 Ch remain, Ch 5, 1 Sc in last Ch,
turn. (16(18, 20, 22, 24) picots)
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 Dc and Ch 2), *picot in 3rd Ch of next Ch-5
Sp, Ch 5, repeat from * across row until you reach the last Ch-5 Sp,
picot in 3rd Ch of last Ch-5 Sp, Ch 2, 1 Dc in last Sc, turn. (17(19, 21,
23, 25) picots)
Note- after row 2 is where you will bring in color B. Finish the last pull
through of the final Dc with your new color. From here on out, switch
your color A and color B every 2 rows. Do not cut and join your yarn,
simply pick up the yarn and bring it up to join. This will create floats
along the side of the panel which we will later seam over. Make sure not
to pull the floats tight.
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first Dc, *Ch 5, picot in 3rd Ch of next Ch-5 Sp,
repeat from * across row, Ch 5, 1 Sc in 3rd Ch of turning Ch, turn.
(16(18, 20, 22, 24) picots)
Rows 4-36(38, 40, 42, 44): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.
Row 37(39, 41, 43, 45): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, *Ch 3, Sk over the picot
and work 1 Sc into the center Ch of the next Ch-5 Sp, repeat from *
across row until you reach the last picot, Ch 3, Sk over last picot and
work 1 Sc in the 3rd Ch of turning Ch.
Fasten off

Sleeves (make 2)

With Color A- Ch 34(38,46, 50, 58) (do not chain too tightly, try to keep
a relaxed tension here)
Row 1 (RS): 1 Sc in 2nd Ch from the hook, *Ch 5, Sk 3 Ch, picot in
next Ch, repeat from * across until 4 Ch remain, Ch 5, 1 Sc in last Ch,
turn. (7(8, 10, 11, 13) picots)
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 Dc and Ch 2), *picot in 3rd Ch of next Ch-5
Sp, Ch 5, repeat from * across row until you reach the last Ch-5 Sp,
picot in 3rd Ch of last Ch-5 Sp, Ch 2, 1 Dc in last Sc, turn. (8(9, 11, 12,
14) picots)
Note- after row 2 is where you will bring in color B. Finish the last pull
through of the final Dc with your new color. From here on out, switch
your color A and color B every 2 rows. Do not cut and join your yarn,
simply pick up the yarn and bring it up to join. This will create floats
along the side of the panel which we will later seam over. Make sure not
to pull the floats tight.
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first Dc, *Ch 5, picot in 3rd Ch of next Ch-5 Sp,
repeat from * across row, Ch 5, 1 Sc in 3rd Ch of turning Ch, turn. (7(8,
10, 11, 13) picots)
Rows 4-28(28, 28, 26, 26): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.
Row 29: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, *Ch 3, Sk over the picot and work 1 Sc
into the center Ch of the next Ch-5 Sp, repeat from * across row until
you reach the last picot, Ch 3, Sk over last picot and work 1 Sc in the 3rd
Ch of turning Ch. (9(10, 12, 13, 15) Sc)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming sleeve to sweater.
Note- This is
an oversized drop-sleeve style pullover. The wider the front/back panels   are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down
your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger.
You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away rows in
multiples of 2.

Assembly

Place your front and back panel together, RS facing. Make sure your
rows and stitches are lined up. With your preferred method, use the tail
of yarn on the first shoulder of the front panel to sew to the back. I like
to use my hook and Sl St across.
You can also use a needle and sew
across. Repeat on opposite shoulder.
Now we will be sewing the sleeves to the main panels. Lay your front
and back panel out, WS up.
Place your first sleeve flush with the front
and back panel so that the shoulder seam is in the very center of your
sleeve. Use your SM and put it in the center of the sleeve and the
shoulder seam to hold your place. Pull the last row of your sleeve taught
and make sure both ends are even and next to the same row on both the
front and back panel. Place SM on both ends.
Use the tail of yarn and the
same method of sewing from the shoulder to seam the last row of the
sleeve to the front and back panel. Repeat on other side, making sure
your sleeves are even.
Finally, you need to sew the sleeves together and the side of the pullover
together.
Join yarn at either the cuff or hem of sweater. Use the same
method and seam together.
Repeat on opposite side.

Neckline Trim

Turn your pullover RS out, with the front panel facing up. We will now
be adding the trim to the neckline. Join yarn with a Sl St to to the same
St as the last Sc made in Row 33(35, 37, 39, 41) of the first shoulder.
Round 1: *Ch 3, Sk over next picot, 1 Sc into center Ch of next Ch-5
Sp* repeat form * to * across the front of the neckline until you get to
Row 33(35, 37, 39, 41) of the opposite shoulder, Ch 3, Sk over the final
picot and Sl St into the Same St as the Sc of Row 33(35, 37, 39, 41), Sc
evenly up the side of the neckline (working over floats), when you reach
the back of the neckline, work 1 Sc into each Sc and each Ch, Sc evenly
down the other side of the neckline, Sl St into the first Sl St made to
join. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.

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