The Daisy Cardigan is worked in one body piece, folded and sewed together and 2 separate sleeves that will be added to the cardigan. After sewing the sides together you’ll add a border.
Skill level: Intermediate
The garment in the pictures is in size M, with 10 cm / 4” ease for an oversized look. This pattern is written using US terminology.
Supplies
Recommended Yarn: Denim Breeze from Hobbii yarns or other Sport / Baby / 2 – weight yarn. Preferably cotton or cotton blend.
Yarn usage: 11 (12, 14, 15)(17,19, 22) skeins of Denim Breeze (see next page for yardage)
Crochet hook size: 3,5 mm / E-4 Tapestry needle to weave ends 3-4 Stitch markers or similar
Sizes
This pattern is written in seven sizes: XS, S, M, L / XL, 2XL, 3XL and 4XL / 5XL. Stitch count
for the different sizes is in the following order in the parentheses after each row in the pattern:
For example:
24 (26, 28, 30) (32, 34, 36) sts XS (S, M, L/XL) (2XL , 3XL, 4XL/5XL) sts You will find the size guide on the next page
Abbreviations
- Ch Chain
- Sts Stitches
- Dc Double crochet
- Tr Treble crochet (aka triple crochet)
- Sp Space
- Ss Same stitch
- Sc Single crochet
- Yo Yarn over
- Sm Stitch marker
- Ch-sp Chain space
- Sl st Slip stitch
SIZE GUIDE
Note! The measurements below are the measurements of the final garment size. Your own measurements should be at least 5 cm / 2” smaller. If you prefer a more loose fit, go up a size. Sample pictures has a positive ease of 10cm /4”.
Gauge swatch and learning the pattern repeat
Begin by checking your gauge. This is to ensure that your cardigan gets the correct size and therefore it is crucial that your swatch is the same measurements as in the pattern. Pictures available for many of the steps, see the following pages.
Chain 35
- Row 1 (pictures on page 5-6): In the 10th chain from the hook tr, ch 5, tr in the ss. *Ch 3, 2tr in the 1st ch (but do not close i.e. do not yo and pull through on final step of tr, insteadleave the loop, after 2 tr you’ll have 3 loops on the hook), tr3tog in the 3rd ch of starting chain (but do not close, you’ll now have 6 loops on the hook), tr3tog in the 5th ch of startingch (but do not close, you’ll now have 9 loops on the hook). Yo, pull through all 9 loops. Ch3, 2 tr in the st that pulled the 9 loops together (do not close, 3 loops on the hook), tr in the3rd ch of starting ch, pull through all 4 loops on the hook. Ch 5, tr in the same st* repeat *-*across row until 3 final sts. Ch 1, skip 2 chains, tr in the last ch of the row. Turn.
- Row 2 (pictures on page 7): ch 5, put a sm in the 5th ch, continue to ch 5 more. Sc in thech-5 space from previous row, ch 7, *tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row,ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch 7, sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7* repeat *-* across row. Tr in the first ch from previous row. Turn. From here on all tr that you shouldn’t close will be marked with ¨ (for example tr2tog¨ or tr¨)
- Row 3 (pictures on page 8): ch 8, in the 3rd ch from the hook tr2tog¨, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook. *Ch 5, tr in the ss. Ch 3, tr2tog¨ in the 1st ch, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook* repeat *-* across row, the final tr before you pull through all 4 loops is made in the st you marked with a sm on row 2. Turn.
- Row 4 (pictures on page 9): Ch 6, *tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch 7, sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7* repeat *-* across row until final 4 petals, tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch1, tr in the 1st ch. Turn.
- Row 5 (pictures on page 9): Ch 6, tr in the ch 3 space from previous row, ch 5, tr in the ss, *ch 3, tr2tog¨ in the 1st ch, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook, ch 5, tr in the ss* repeat *-* across row, ch 1, tr in the 1st ch after the petal.
Measure your swatch, 10×10 cm / 4”x4”. For the gauge to be correct you should have 1.5 flower pattern across and 2.5 flower patterns in height (5 rows).
2 tr in the 1st ch (but do not close i.e. do not yo and pull through on final step of tr, instead leave the loop, after 2 tr you’ll have 3 loops on the hook)
Continue with:
*ch 3, tr2tog¨ in the 1st ch, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook… Like you did on row 3.
Back section
Begin with the back section.
With the hook you reached gauge with: Chain 79 (90, 101, 112) (123, 134, 145)
- Row 1: In the 10th chain from the hook tr, ch 5, tr in the ss. *Ch 3, 2 tr in the 1st ch (but do not close i.e. do not yo and pull through on final step of tr, instead leave the loop, after 2 tr you’ll have 3 loops on the hook), tr3tog in the 3rd ch of starting chain (but do not close, you’ll now have 6 loops on the hook), tr3tog in the 5th ch of starting ch (but do not close, you’ll now have 9 loops on the hook). Yo, pull through all 9 loops. Ch 3, 2 tr in the st that pulled the 9 loops together (do not close, 3 loops on the hook), tr in the 3rd ch of starting ch, pull through all 4 loops on the hook. Ch 5, tr in the same st* repeat *-* across row until 3 final sts. Ch 1, skip 2 chains, tr in the last ch of the row. Turn.
- Row 2: ch 5, put a sm in the 5th ch, continue to ch 5 more. Sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7, *tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch 7, sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7* repeat *-* across row. Tr in the first ch from previous row. Turn. From here on all tr that you shouldn’t close will be marked with ¨ (for example tr2tog¨ or tr¨)
- Row 3: ch 8, in the 3rd ch from the hook tr2tog¨, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook. *Ch 5, tr in the ss. Ch 3, tr2tog¨ in the 1st ch, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook* repeat *-* across row, the final tr before you pull through all 4 loops is made in the st you marked with a sm on row 2. Turn.
- Row 4: Ch 6, *tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch 7, sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7* repeat *-* across row until final 4 petals, tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch1, tr in the 1st ch. Turn.
- Row 5: Ch 6, tr in the ch 3 space from previous row, ch 5, tr in the ss, *ch 3, tr2tog¨ in the 1st ch, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook, ch 5, tr in the ss* repeat *-* across row, ch 1, tr in the 1st ch after the petal.
Repeat row 2-5 until you’ve made a total of 34 (34, 34, 38) (38, 38, 40) rows. Do not fasten off, continue with fronts.
If you want a longer cardigan, make more rows here. Make sure to end on an even number row and to add the same amount of rows on the front. For a shorter cardigan, make less rows, ending on an even row number.
Front sections
Put a sm in the middle, between 2 petals, on the 3rd (3rd, 4th, 4th) (5th, 5th, 6th) flower from each edge. On some sizes this leaves 1 arches in between the stitch markers, on others 2 and a flower
Front 1: Continue from where you left the yarn after the back section, repeating row 2-5 until the front is as many rows as the back. When you reach the stitch marker, you’ll end the row and turn by making the tr for the 4th petal (from a row 5 (this might be row 3 if you adjusted number the of rows, same for front 2) in the space with the sm (see picture below).
Front 2: Attach your yarn in the st with the second sm. Ch 6. Continue with a row 5, beginning with the: tr in the ch 3 space from previous row, ch 5, tr in the ss. Continue repeating row 2-5 until the front is as many rows as the back and other front section
Sewing
Fold the front section over the back section. Sew the sides, leaving an opening for the sleeves on each side (i.e. do not fasten off so this can easily be adjusted), mark it with a sm to easily know when to stop sewing.
The opening should be half of the sleeves circumference, see next page on how to choose sleeve size.
Use the mattress stitch to sew it. It is sewn on the right side like lacing a shoelace. Go under the loop on the other side, pull tight. Cross over to the other side going under a loop. Repeat across.
Sleeves
Make 2. To adjust the sleeve width, choose a sleeve width from the size guide that matches your preferences. This does not have to be the same size as for the body. With the hook you reached gauge with: Chain 68 (68, 79, 79) (90, 90, 101).
- Row 1: In the 10th chain from the hook tr, ch 5, tr in the ss. *Ch 3, 2 tr in the 1st ch (but do not close i.e. do not yo and pull through on final step of tr, instead leave the loop, after 2 tr you’ll have 3 loops on the hook), tr3tog in the 3rd ch of starting chain (but do not close, you’ll now have 6 loops on the hook), tr3tog in the 5th ch of starting ch (but do not close, you’ll now have 9 loops on the hook). Yo, pull through all 9 loops. Ch 3, 2 tr in the st that pulled the 9 loops together (do not close, 3 loops on the hook), tr in the 3rd ch of starting ch, pull through all 4 loops on the hook. Ch 5, tr in the same st* repeat *-* across row until 3 final sts. Ch 1, skip 2 chains, tr in the last ch of the row. Turn.
- Row 2: ch 5, put a sm in the 5th ch, continue to ch 5 more. Sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7, *tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch 7, sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7* repeat *-* across row. Tr in the first ch from previous row. Turn. From here on all tr that you shouldn’t close will be marked with ¨ (for example tr2tog¨ or tr¨)
- Row 3: ch 8, in the 3rd ch from the hook tr2tog¨, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook. *Ch 5, tr in the ss. Ch 3, tr2tog¨ in the 1st ch, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook* repeat *-* across row, the final tr before you pull through all 4 loops is made in the st you marked with a sm on row 2. Turn.
- Row 4: Ch 6, *tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch 7, sc in the ch-5 space from previous row, ch 7* repeat *-* across row until final 4 petals, tr3tog in the middle of the 4 petals from previous row, ch 3, tr3tog in the ss, ch1, tr in the 1st ch. Turn.
- Row 5: Ch 6, tr in the ch 3 space from previous row, ch 5, tr in the ss, *ch 3, tr2tog¨ in the 1st ch, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, tr3tog¨ in the ch-7 space from previous row, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook. Ch 3, 2 tr¨ in the st that pulled the 9 loops together, tr¨ in the ch-3 sp from prev row, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook, ch 5, tr in the ss* repeat *-* across row, ch 1, tr in the 1st ch after the petal.
Repeat row 2-5 until you’ve made a total of 17 – 23 rows depending on your preferences, make sure to end on an uneven row. To know your sleeve size try on your cardigan and measure from where the shoulder (of the cardigan) ends until your preferred length and make the sleeve slightly shorter than this (ribbing will be added).
Sleeves – assembly
Fold the sleeve in half, lengthwise. Sew the sides together. Attach your sleeve to your body
section by sewing around the edge.
section by sewing around the edge.
Ribbing / Border
Neckline
Attach your yarn in the middle of the neckline on the back side. Crochet sc all the way around the neckline, making sure to keep the right side out. In the 2 bottom corners, crochet 2 sc. This is so that the
corners do not curl. Try to crochet your sc as evenly as possible. When you reach the beginning, sl st in the first sc of the round. Ch 1. Turn. Row 2-3: Sc around, making 2 sc in the bottom corners. Sl st to the first sc of the round. Ch 1. Turn. Fasten off after round 3 (or add more ribbing rows if you prefer, ending on an uneven row number).
Sleeves
Attach your yarn with a slip knot. Crochet sc all the way around the bottom sleeve edge, making sure to keep the right side out. Try to crochet your sc as evenly as possible. When you reach the beginning, sl st in the first sc of the round. Ch 1. Turn. Row 2-3: Sc around. Sl st to the first sc of the round. Ch 1. Turn. Fasten off after round 3 (or add more ribbing rows if you prefer, ending on an uneven row number).