Crochet Pattern Summer Haze Cardigan

The Summer Haze Cardigan is worked in one body piece starting with the back that then splits into 2
front pieces. It is sewn on the sides leaving wholes for the arms. Sleeves and a belt is made on the side and then attached to the body piece.

  • The garment in the pictures is in size S.
  • This pattern is written using US terminology.
3 DC-CL 
  • Stitch
    YO insert hook in next sts of the row.
    YO pull through stitch, YO and pull through
    2 loops on the hook.
  • *YO and insert the hook in the same stitch.
    YO and pull through stitch, YO and pull
    through 2 loops on the hook. * repeat 1 more
    time.
  • YO and pull through all 4 loops on the hook
Supplies 
Recommended Yarn: Lana Gatto Nuovo Jaipur or
other DK / 8 ply / 11 wpi / 3 – weight yarn.
Preferably cotton.
Yarn usage: see size guide
Crochet hook size: 3.5 mm / E-4
Tapestry needle to weave ends
Stitch markers or similar
Sizes 
This pattern is written in six sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL
and 2XL. Stitch count for the different sizes are in
the following order in the parentheses after each
row in the pattern:
For example:
(24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 sts)
(XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL sts)
You will find the size guide on the next page.
Abbreviations
  • Ch Chain
  • Sts Stitches
  • DC Double crochet
  • DC-CL Double crochet cluster
  • SC Single crochet
  • Yo Yarn over
SIZE GUIDE
Note! The measurements below are the measurements of the final garment size. Your own measurements
should be smaller 5 cm / 2” smaller.
Crochet Pattern Summer Haze Cardigan

STARTING THE PATTERN

I recommend that you read through the pattern to get an overall picture of what you will be doing.
The pattern is made in one body piece starting with the back that then splits into 2 front pieces. It is
sewn on the sides leaving holes for the arms. Sleeves and a belt is made on the side and then
attached to the body piece.
The instructions do not count stitches but instead counts patterns. See picture below for reference. The pattern is tricky to keep on gauge because of chaining a lot in the pattern, that means that it
can get too big or too tight. Measure the width of the piece many times the first 10 cm /4” in height
and go either down or up a size or change hook size if needed. Small variations are ok (up to 5 cm /
2”).
It is worked using a simple pattern repeat (see chart on next page) all through the pattern and the
edges are completed with a few rows of granite stitch.
Start by checking your gauge and learn the pattern repeat:
Chain 30
  • Row 1: 3 DC-CL in the seventh chain from the hook. Skip
    2 ch, DC. *Ch 2, skip next ch, SC, ch 2, skip next
    ch, (DC, ch 3, 3 DC-CL) in same stitch, skip 3 ch,
    DC* repeat *-* until 4 last ch. Ch 2, skip next ch,
    SC, ch 2, skip next ch, DC in last ch. Ch 6. Turn. (3
    patterns)
  • Row 2: 3 DC-CL in the final DC from previous row. *skip
    stitches and DC in the next DC from previous row,
    ch 2, SC in next ch-3 space, ch 2, (DC, ch 3, 3
    DC-CL) in next DC* repeat *-* until last DC, ch 2,
    SC in turning ch space, ch 2, DC in third chain of
    turning chain. Ch 6. Turn. (3 patterns)
  • Row 3 – 9: Continue repeating row 2 until your swatch
    measures 10 cm / 4” in height . Compare your
    gauge to the gauge of this pattern and change
    hook size if necessary.

CHART

BODY

Made in one piece from back to front.
Back
Chain (102, 110, 126, 142, 158, 174
  • Row 1: 3 DC-CL in the sixth chain from the hook. Skip 3
    ch, DC. *Ch 2, skip next ch, SC, ch 2, skip next ch,
    (DC, ch 3, 3 DC-CL) in same stitch, skip 3 ch, DC*
    repeat *-* until 4 last ch. Ch 2, skip next ch, SC, ch
    2, skip next ch, DC in last ch. Ch 6. Turn. (12, 13,
    15, 17, 19, 21 patterns)
  • Row 2:
    (row
    instructions
    also used for
    shoulder and
    front)
    3 DC-CL in the final DC from previous row. *skip
    stitches and DC in the next DC from previous row,
    ch 2, SC in next ch-3 space, ch 2, (DC, ch 3, 3 DCCL) in next DC* repeat *-* until last DC, ch 2, SC in
    turning ch space, ch 2, DC in third chain of turning
    chain. Ch 6. Turn. (12, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 patterns)
  • Row 3 – Repeat row 2 until your work measures (60, 64, 68,
    72, 76, 76 cm / 23.6”, 25.2”, 26.8”, 28.3”, 29.9”,
    29.9”) in height (or depending on own preferences).
    Do not fasten off. Continue with shoulders and
    front.

Shoulders and front

Put a stitch marker in the DC after the (5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th) pattern and one after the (7th, 7th,
8th, 9th, 10th, 11th). Make sure that you now have (2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) pattern between the stitch markers
and (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) patterns on each side of them. Repeat row 2 until last DC before the final pattern
before the first stitch marker, ch 2, SC in ch-3 space, ch 2, DC in DC. Ch 6. turn.
(5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 patterns)
Repeat row 2 on this shoulder until it is as long as the back section when the shoulder is folded over
the back section. (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 patterns). Fasten off.

 Sleeves

Make 2. Sleeves are worked flat, from bottom and up and the width is the length of
your sleeve. If you want longer or shorter sleeves you need to begin with more or
less chains. Below are suggestion for each size and can also be used to get a
certain length. Add or remove chains in repeats of 8 chains to adjust it further (= + /
– 1 pattern). The sleeves are then sewn to the cardigan.
Chain (38, 46, 54, 62, 62, 70) for length of the sleeve to be 17, 20, 24, 28, 28,
31 cm / 7”, 8”, 9”, 11”, 11”, 12” including the ribbing of 2 cm / 1”. Pictured gives
a 1/2 sleeve and is 20 cm / 8” (46 chains).
  • Row 1: 3 DC-CL in the sixth chain from the hook. Skip 3 ch, DC. *Ch 2,
    skip next ch, SC, ch 2, skip next ch, (DC, ch 3, 3 DC-CL) in
    same stitch, skip 3 ch, DC* repeat *-* until 4 last ch. Ch 2, skip
    next ch, SC, ch 2, skip next ch, DC in last ch. Ch 6. Turn. (4, 5,
    6, 7, 7, 8 patterns)
  • Row 2: 3 DC-CL in the first DC from previous row. *skip stitches and DC
    in the next DC from previous row, ch 2, SC in next ch-3 space,
    ch 2, (DC, ch 3, 3 DC-CL) in next DC* repeat *-* until last DC, ch
    2, SC in turning ch space, DC in third chain of turning chain. Ch
    6. Turn. (4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8 patterns)
  • Row 3- Repeat row 2 until your sleeve measures (34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 48
    cm / 13.4”, 14.2”, 15.7”, 17.3”, 18.1”, 18.9”) in height (this is the
    width of your sleeve, so you can easily adjust it by making more
    or fewer rows. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Now you are ready to sew the sleeves. Fold them in half long ways and sew them. Continue with
sewing the sides of the front and back section. Fold the front section over the back section. Sew the
front and back section together on the sides, leaving holes for the sleeves. See the sewing chart below
Sleeveless cover up 
You can also skip the
sleeves and only add the
sleeve ribbing (see next
page). That makes for a
perfect svimsuit cover up.

Sewing chart

 Ribbing

Ribbing is worked around the edges of the cardigan from the right side. It is worked in continous round with
no join or turn in between the rounds. The pattern does not have a strict right or wrong side. You decide on
the side you like the most to have out. With right side facing out attach your yarn in the middle of the neck
area with a slipknot, ch 1. If you tend to crochet tightly it is a good idea to go up a hook size or two for the ribbing.
  • Round 1: Work SC around the neck edge, left
    and right front edge and bottom edge.
    Try to space out the SC as evenly as
    possible. Work 3 SC in every corner.
    Do not turn. Put a stitch marker in the
    final stitch so you know where one
    round ends. Continue with round 2.
  • Round 2: *SC, ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat *-*
    around working 3 SC in every corner.
  • Round 3 – 6: Crochet granite stitches around.
    Fasten off after round 6.
Ribbing of the sleeves 
Repeat round 1 – 6 on the edges of the sleeves as well.
Granite stitch
A stitch is made by crocheting a
single crochet and then chaining
one. The hook is inserted in the
space between stitches.
(SC, Ch 1).
Also known as Moss stitch or
Linen stitch.

Belt

If you want you can make a belt to close the
cardigan. It is made in granite stitches. Ch
(240, 260, 300, 340, 380, 420).
  • Row 1: In the second chain from the hook.*SC,
    ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat *-* across row. Ch
    2. Turn. (239, 259, 299, 339, 379, 419 sts)
  • Row 2 – 6: Granite stitch across row. Ch 2.
    Turn. Fasten off after row 6. (239, 259, 299,
    339, 379, 419 sts)
Make attachment points on the cardigan by
taking a piece of yarn (slightly over twice as
wide as the belt) and tie it around a pattern on
the side of the cardigan in the middle. Put the
knot on the inside. Repeat on other side.

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