The dress is worked top down, mainly in the round. You will start by making the yoke around the neck and then split to front and back sections over the bust, until you join again under the arms and continue in the round until the dress reaches your preferred length.
You may increase and decrease the width of the dress to shape it for waist and hips if you like. You might need more or less yarn than estimated yarn usage depending on how you shape it. Please note that if you make it using cotton the dress gets heavy and might stretch from its own weight while using.
I noticed that it isn’t a problem for size S, but for larger sizes you might need to take this into account for the armholes (see later on in the pattern). Turning chains do not count as stitches. If you need you can ch 2 instead of ch 1 for your turning chains. Stitch count can be found in parentheses later in this guide.
- The dress in the pictures is in size S.
- This pattern is written using US terminology.
- Gauge (10x10cm / 4×4”)
10 rows of HDC
11.5 HDC across (the 10 cm /
4” mark is in the middle of the
12th HDC)
Supplies
- Recommended Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / 9 wpi / 4. The dress in the picture is made using Shiny Happy Cotton from Wool and the Gang.
- Yarn usage: see size guide
- Crochet hook size: 5.0 mm / H-8 and optional 4.0 mm / G-6
- Tapestry needle to weave ends
- Stitch markers or similar
Sizes
This pattern is written in six sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL and 2XL. Stitch count for the different sizes are in the following order in the parentheses after each row in the pattern:
For example:
(26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 sts) (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL sts) You will find the size guide on the next page
Abbreviations
- Ch Chain
- Sts Stitches
- HDC Half Double Crochet
- SC Single crochet
- SC-BLO Single crochet back loop only
- Sl st Slip stitch
- 2tog Crochet 2 stitc
SIZE GUIDE
Note! The measurements below are the measurements of the final garment size. Your own measurements
should be around 2.5 cm / 1” smaller (positive ease).
should be around 2.5 cm / 1” smaller (positive ease).
PATTERN
Yoke
First worked back and forth in rows, then connected to work in the round before it’s split again and
joined under the arms.
joined under the arms.
Chain (68, 76, 76, 84, 92, 100)
- Row 1: HDC in third chain from the hook.1 HDC in every stitch across. Ch 1. Turn. (66,
74, 74, 82, 90, 98 sts) - Row 2: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more
times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Ch 1. Turn. (74, 82, 82, 90, 98, 106 sts) - Row 3: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 12) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more
times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Ch 1. Turn. (82, 90, 90, 98, 106, 114 sts) - Row 4: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Ch 1. Turn. (90, 98, 98, 106, 114, 122
sts) - Row 5: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Ch 1. Turn. (98, 106, 106, 114, 122,
130 sts) - Row 6: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 15) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Ch 1. Turn. (106, 114, 114, 122, 130,
138 sts) - Row 7: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (12, 13, 13, 14, 15, 16) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Ch 1. Turn. (114, 122, 122, 130, 138,
146 sts) - Row 8: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (13, 14, 14, 15, 16, 17) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). (122, 130, 130, 138, 146, 154 sts). Fasten off. - Round 9: Reattach your yarn in the (62, 66, 66, 70, 74, 78)th sts from the edge (see
pictures below and beginning of next page). You will now be working in the round,
continuing to increase as below. When you reach the end of the row, continue
making the next HDC in the sts on the other side, thereby connecting the two
edges. Make this HDC extra tight. 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (14, 15, 15, 16, 17, 18) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of
the round. Ch 1. Turn. (130, 138, 138, 146, 154, 162 sts)
Yoke – continue
- Round 10: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 19) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of
the round. Ch 1. Turn. (138, 146, 146, 154, 162, 170 sts) - Round 11: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (16, 17, 17, 18, 19, 20) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of
the round. Ch 1. Turn. (146, 154, 154, 162, 170, 178 sts) Size XS: Fasten off
and continue to front section. - Round 12: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (X, 18, 18, 19, 20, 21) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of
the round. Ch 1. Turn. (X, 162, 162, 170, 178, 186 sts) Size S: Fasten off and
continue to front section. - Round 13: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (X, X, 19, 20, 21, 22) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7
more times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of
the round. Ch 1. Turn. (X, X, 170, 178, 186, 194 sts) Size M: Fasten off and
continue to front section. - Round 14: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (X, X, X, 21, 22, 23) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more
times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of the
round. Ch 1. Turn. (X, X, X, 186, 194, 202 sts) - Round 15: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (X, X, X, 22, 23, 24) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more
times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of the
round. Ch 1. Turn. (X, X, X, 194, 202, 210 sts) Size L and XL: Fasten off and
continue to front section. - Round 16: 1 HDC. *2 HDC in the same stitch, (X, X, X, X, X, 25) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more
times (for a total of 8 times). 1 HDC. Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of the
round. Ch 1. Turn. (X, X, X, X, X, 218 sts) Size XXL: Fasten off and continue to
front section.
Front section of the dress
The dress will now be temporarily split into a front
and back section which are worked flat. These will
then be joined together under the arms and the rest
of the dress will be worked in the round.
and back section which are worked flat. These will
then be joined together under the arms and the rest
of the dress will be worked in the round.
- Row 1: From the middle of the front (where the
V is – see pictures). Count (20, 23, 25,
28, 30, 33 sts to left and right and mark
with stitch markers. Reattach your yarn
in the stitch with one of the stitch
markers (which one depends on if your
next row is a front side row or back side
row. If you are unsure you can start on
one side and after a few stitches you
see if the ridge pattern of the HDC is
consistent with the previous rows.) Ch 1.
HDC in the next (40, 45, 50, 56, 59, 65
sts). Ch 1. Turn. (40, 45, 50, 56, 59, 65
sts) - Row 2-4: HDC across. Ch 1. Turn. (40, 45, 50, 56,
59, 65 sts). Do not fasten off until you’ve
done the back section and decided on
the armholes fit. When it is ok, fasten
of.
Armholes – read this after row 4
Try on your dress after row 4 to see how
deep over the bust it goes. You will join the
front section and back section together
which creates the armhole. But we want the
fit to be good for your arms. Not too tight
and not too loose.
deep over the bust it goes. You will join the
front section and back section together
which creates the armhole. But we want the
fit to be good for your arms. Not too tight
and not too loose.
If you think it is too tight under your arms,
you need to add more rows before
connecting the front and back section.
Remember to add equal amount of rows on
both front and back section.
you need to add more rows before
connecting the front and back section.
Remember to add equal amount of rows on
both front and back section.
If you think it will go too deep under your
arms, you need to remove rows before
connecting the front and back section.
Remember to remove equal amount of rows
on both front and back section.
arms, you need to remove rows before
connecting the front and back section.
Remember to remove equal amount of rows
on both front and back section.
Back section of the dress
You will now repeat Row 1-4 for the other side of the yoke. Attach your yarn with a slip knot in
the (34, 37, 36, 42, 43, 45)th sts from where you ended the row of row 1 of front section. Ch 1.
the (34, 37, 36, 42, 43, 45)th sts from where you ended the row of row 1 of front section. Ch 1.
- Row 1: HDC in the next (40, 45, 50, 56, 59, 65 sts). Ch 1. Turn. (40, 45, 50, 56, 59, 65
sts). - Row 2-4: HDC across. Ch 1. Turn. (40, 45, 50, 56, 59, 65 sts) Do not fasten off after row 4
(Ch 1. Turn and continue to next section).
Connecting the front and back section (see pictures below)
- Round 1: HDC across row. Ch 5 and join with front section with a HDC in the next sts (on the front
section). HDC across row. Ch 5 and join to the first sts of the back section with a sl st. Ch 1.
Turn. (90, 100, 110, 122, 128, 140 sts) - Round 2: HDC in every stitch around, including in the chains. Join to first HDC of the round with a slip
stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (90, 100, 110, 122, 128, 140 sts) - Round 3: Repeat round 2 until the dress goes under your bust.
Shaping of the waist (optional)
When your dress reaches under your bust, you will start
decreasing it to create a waist on the dress.
decreasing it to create a waist on the dress.
Here you have an
option to continue the
same width for the
dress and not shape it
for the waist. You then
repeat round 2 until
your dress is at desired
length or until it
reaches you hip. When
it reaches your hip you
can do the instructions
for shaping the hip or
still continue with round
2. Round 2 refers to
round 2 in the section:
connecting the front
and back section
option to continue the
same width for the
dress and not shape it
for the waist. You then
repeat round 2 until
your dress is at desired
length or until it
reaches you hip. When
it reaches your hip you
can do the instructions
for shaping the hip or
still continue with round
2. Round 2 refers to
round 2 in the section:
connecting the front
and back section
It is important to try on
your dress after every
decrease round so you
know that it does not
get too tight or too
loose over the waist.
Skip or add decrease
rounds as needed. For
every added decrease
round, you have one
HDC less in the repeat
section.
your dress after every
decrease round so you
know that it does not
get too tight or too
loose over the waist.
Skip or add decrease
rounds as needed. For
every added decrease
round, you have one
HDC less in the repeat
section.
- Round 1: Decrease round: (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC. *HDC2tog,
(9, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more
times (for a total of 8 times). (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC.
Join with a slip stitch to first HDC of the round. Ch
1. Turn. (82, 92, 102, 114, 120, 132 sts) - Round 2: HDC in every stitch around. Join to first HDC of the
round with a slip stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (82, 92, 102,
114, 120, 132 sts) - Round 3: Decrease round: (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC. *HDC2tog,
(8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more times
(for a total of 8 times). (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC. Join
with a slip stitch to first HDC of the round. Ch 1.
Turn. (74, 84, 94, 106, 112, 124 sts) - Round 4: HDC in every stitch around. Join to first HDC of the
round with a slip stitch. Ch 1. Turn. (74, 84, 94, 106,
112, 124 sts)
Round 5- Decrease every other round until the dress meets
your waist measurements. When you have reached
this measurement, then continue to add rows of
HDC in every stitch around until the dress is at the
narrowest point of your waist.
If you add more decrease round than suggested:
remember (write down) the numbers of HDC you
made in your final decrease round for the repeat
(bolded below): *HDC2tog, (8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14)
HDC*. This number will then be used on round 1 for
the shaping of the hip.
Shaping of the hip (optional)
When your dress reach under your waist, you will start
increasing it for it to go over your hips. Remember to add
the ribbing even if you’re not doing the shaping. Below
rounds are suggestions. Skip or add more increase
rounds as needed, every round or every other round.
If you made more decrease rounds on the waist –
remember to use that HDC number in the repeat for
round 1 (for round 3 it’s that number +1 and so on).
increasing it for it to go over your hips. Remember to add
the ribbing even if you’re not doing the shaping. Below
rounds are suggestions. Skip or add more increase
rounds as needed, every round or every other round.
If you made more decrease rounds on the waist –
remember to use that HDC number in the repeat for
round 1 (for round 3 it’s that number +1 and so on).
It is important to try on
your dress after every
increase round so you
know that it does not get
too tight or too loose
over the hip. Skip or add
more increase rounds as
needed. For every added
(8sts) increase round, you
have one HDC more in
the repeat section.
your dress after every
increase round so you
know that it does not get
too tight or too loose
over the hip. Skip or add
more increase rounds as
needed. For every added
(8sts) increase round, you
have one HDC more in
the repeat section.
- Round 1: Increase round: (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC. *2
HDC in the same stitch, (8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14)
HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more times (for a total of
8 times). (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC. Join with a
slip stitch to first HDC of the round. Ch 1.
Turn. (82, 92, 102, 114, 120, 132 sts) - Round 2: HDC in every stitch around. Join to first
HDC of the round with a slip stitch. Ch 1.
Turn. (82, 92, 102, 114, 120, 132 sts) - Round 3: Increase round: (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC. *2
HDC in the same stitch, (9, 10, 12, 13, 14,
15) HDC*. Repeat *-* 7 more times (for a
total of 8 times). (1, 2, 3, 1, 0, 2) HDC. Join
with a slip stitch to first HDC of the round.
Ch 1. Turn. (90, 100, 110, 122, 128, 140 sts) - Round 4: HDC in every stitch around. Join to first
HDC of the round with a slip stitch. Ch 1.
Turn. (90, 100, 110, 122, 128, 140sts) - Round 5- Increase every other round until the dress
meets your hip measurements. When you
have reached this measurement, then
continue to add rounds of HDC in every
stitch around until the dress is 5 cm / 2”
shorter than your desired length.
Ribbing: With the right side facing you: Continue by
making SC-BLO around for 5-6 rounds. No
join and no turn, just continue around in the
BLO. This will create a nice ribbing / edge.
Fasten off.
Finishing touches
Attach your yarn in the top of the “V” and space out SC evenly in the V.
Right side facing out.
Right side facing out.
