Crochet Pattern Rose Dust Sweater

• Yarn weight: Aran / Worsted / 10 ply / 9 wpi / 4 – sample is made using Laine from Novita.
• Yarn usage: see size guide
• Crochet hook size: 5.5 mm / I-9
• Crochet hook size: 5.0 mm / H-8 (optional)
• Tapestry needle to weave ends
• Stitch markers or similar

For example:
(24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 sts)
(XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL sts)

Sweater in pictures is size S. You will find the size
guide on the next page.

• Ch Chain
• Sts Stitches
• SC Single crochet
• DC Double crochet
• FPhdc Front post half double crochet
• BPhdc Back post half double crochet
• 2tog Crochet 2 stitches together

I recommend that you read through the pattern to get an overall picture on what you will be doing. The
pattern is made in four pieces: a front section, back section and 2 sleeves. Once they are created you
will sew together the front and back section and attaching the sleeves to the body piece.

Start by checking your gauge. Begin with the 5.5 mm / I-9 hook size (if you know from the beginning that
you crochet tight, you can start with a larger hook) and chain 23. Make a SC in the third chain from the
hook. Ch 1. Skip next chain. *SC, Ch 1, skip next chain* repeat across row ending with a SC. Chain 2.
Turn. Continue with Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. Make rows of granite stitch until your gauge
swatch is 10 cm / 4” and you are ready to check your gauge.

Note! The measurements below are the measurements of the final garment size. Your own measurements
should be around 5 cm / 2” smaller.

Ribbing
Row 1 and 2 are ribbing rows. For the ribbing, it is
recommended to use the smaller hook size

Chain (73, 83, 93, 101, 109, 119)

• Row 1: DC in third chain from the hook. DC across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117
  sts)
• Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107,
  117 sts)
• Row 3: *SC, Ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat across row ending with a SC. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81,
  91, 99, 107, 117 sts)
  Row 4: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts)

 Continue making rows of granite stitches until front section
measures (49, 55, 55, 59, 59, 59 cm) / (19.3”, 21.7”, 21.7”, 23.2”,
23.2”, 23.2”). Now continue with shoulders.

• Row 7: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2
  granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (21, 25, 29, 33, 35, 37 sts)
• Row 8: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 9: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2
  granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35 sts)
• Row 10: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 11: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2
  granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33 sts)
• Row 12: Granite stitch across, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the shoulders together.

• Row 1: Begin from the straight edge. Attach your yarn with a slip
  knot, ch 1. Make granite stitches until you have two spaces
  left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches
  together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 43 sts)
• Row 2: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 3: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the
  stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain
  2. Turn. (25, 29, 33, 37, 39, 41 sts)
• Row 4: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 5: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the
  stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain
  2. Turn. (23, 27, 31, 35, 37, 39 sts)
• Row 6: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 7: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the
  stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain
  2. Turn. (21, 25, 29, 33, 35, 37 sts)
• Row 8: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 9: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the
  stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain
  2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35 sts)
• Row 10: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 11: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the
  stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain
  2. Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33 sts)
• Row 12: Granite stitch across, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the
  shoulders together.

BODY – BACK

Chain (73, 83, 93, 101, 109, 119)

• Row 1: DC in third chain from the hook. DC across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts)
• Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107,
  117 sts)
• Row 3: *SC, Ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat across row ending with a SC. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91,
  99, 107, 117 sts)
  Row 4: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts)

Put a stitch marker at (20, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34) stitch.

• Row 1: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker.
  Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35
  sts)
• Row 2: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 3: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker.
  Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33
  sts)
• Row 4: Granite stitch across. Fasten off.

• Row 1: Begin from straight edge. Make granite
  stitches until you have two spaces left before
  the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches
  together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31,
  33, 35 sts)
• Row 2: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn.
• Row 3: Make granite stitches until you have two
  spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet
  2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2.
  Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33 sts)
• Row 4: Granite stitch across. Fasten off.

Sleeves

Make 2. Sleeves are worked flat, from bottom and up and then seamed to the sweater.
Start with the ribbing (row 1 and 2). For ribbing it may be good to use the smaller hook size to avoid curls.

*Extra increases for size L, XL and 2XL
Make rows 25,45, 60 & 65 according to these
instructions.
–

• Row 25: Increase row (47, 47, 51 sts)
• Row 45: Increase row (59, 59, 63 sts)
• Row 60: Increase row (67, 67, 71 sts)
• Row 65: Increase row (71, 71, 75 sts )

Increase row: Make 2 granite stitches in first stitch.
Granite stitch across until last stitch. 2 granite stitches in
last stitch. Chain 2. Turn.

Sleeve length Row 80:
47 cm / 18.5”

For more sleeve variations –
see last page (particular if you
make size M or L sweater)

Chain (33, 37, 41, 41, 41, 45)

• Row 1: DC in third chain from the hook. DC across row. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39, 39, 39, 43 sts)
• Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39, 39, 39, 43
  sts)
• Row 3: *SC, Ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat across row. SC in last stitch. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39,
  39, 39, 43 sts)
• Row 4-19: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39, 39, 39, 43 sts)
• Row 20: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch
  across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite
  stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (35, 39, 43, 43, 43, 47 sts)
• Row 21-29*: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (35, 39, 43, 47, 47, 51 sts)
• Row 30: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch
  across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite
  stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (39, 43, 47, 51, 51, 55 sts)
• Row 31-39: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (39, 43, 47, 51, 51, 55 sts)
• Row 40: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch
  across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite
  stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (43, 47, 51, 55, 55, 59 sts)
• Row 41-54*: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (43, 47, 51, 59, 59, 63 sts)
• Row 55: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch
  across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite
  stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (47, 51, 55, 63, 63, 67 sts)
• Row 56-69*: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (47, 51, 55, 71, 71, 75 sts)
• Row 70: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch
  across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite
  stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (51, 55, 59, 75, 75, 79 sts)
• Row 71-80: (or until you are happy with the sleeve length): Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. (On your
  last row skip chain 2 and turn, fasten off instead). (51, 55, 59, 75, 75, 79 sts)

Sewing

Use the mattress stitch to seam the front and back
sections.
Start sewing just above the ribbing on front section and
remember to leave holes for the sleeves. Do not fasten
off so that openings can be adjusted later on if needed.

Continue with shoulder seams, leaving a tail allowing for
adjustments of neck opening later.
Make sure to make all the seaming on the wrong side of
the sweater. Note! This sweater does not have a strict
right or wrong side, you choose which one is your right
and which one is your wrong.

You’ll find many instructions online on how to sew the
mattress stitch. But basically you work from one side to
the other, going in with your needle from under the
stitch, like you would if you attach a shoelace to a shoe.
You continue by going from under alternating between
the sides, just like with the shoelace.

Now you are ready to sew the sleeves. Fold them in half
long ways, with wrong side facing out, and sew them long
ways using the mattress stitch (or a stitch of your choice).
Attach them to your sweater using the mattress stitch. Make
sure you have wrong side facing out and that the seam
goes from the armpit

Check and adjust seams on each shoulder, make sure that the sweater fits
over your head and that you are happy with the width of the neck opening.
Make the final seam for shoulders and continue with the neckband.

Use a smaller hook. I used 5.0 mm / H-8.

With right side (not inside out) of the sweater facing you, attach your yarn to
one of the joins of the front and back pieces at shoulder sections with a slip
knot. Chain 2.

Row 1: DC around all the stitches in the neckline. Slip stitch to
your first stitch (does not count as stitch) and chain 2.

Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing.
Fasten off.

If you feel that the sleeves might not be optimal size for you, here are some instructions on how to modify
them.

In particular for size M and L, you might need to modify the sleeves to get a better fit. You do this by
either adding increase rows or removing them. Each increase row widens the sleeve with 2 cm / just
under 1”. To get the stitch count you add 4 stitches for every increase and remove 4 stitches for every
increase row skipped.

2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same
stitch. Granite stitch across until last 3 granite stitch
gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2
granite stitches. Chain 2. Turn.

Suggestions:

• Wider sleeve size M: add extra increase rows on row 45 and 60. That will give a sleeve circumference
  of 40 cm / 15.8” at widest.
• Smaller sleeve size L: skip extra increase rows 25 and 45 (and just make them as in instructions). That
  will give a sleeve circumference of 40 cm / 15.8” at widest.

Making a Rose Dust Sweater in 2 colors

If you’d like to make a Rose Dust Sweater in 2 colors as I did, here are some instructions on how to do it.
Yarn used Lana Gatto Asian. I used 2 colors and 50/50 of them. I started to decide which color to have
down and which one up. After that you need to decide on the length of your sweater (see size guide for
suggestions).

After that you start making the front and back panels in the color you have decided to have
down. Use this color until the section measures half of the total length. Change to your second color and
use that to complete the front and back section, including the shoulders part.

I recommend that you sew
the front and back sections together at this point, so that you may try it on to see where to make the color
change for the sleeves.
For the sleeves you begin with the color you have down on the body section. You will make it almost as
long as you have the color on the body pieces. Put on your body piece and hold your sleeve around your
arm to see the point on where you need to change color.