Crochet Pattern Dhalian Top Written

This is a made-to-measure pattern for the Dahlia Top. Dahlia is a halter top that can be worn in two ways as shown in the photo above – with the lace across the whole front panel or with the lace on the upper half of the front panel only.

You can wear and style this top depending on the coverage you want! It is a very quick and easy project made by crocheting the main body of the top first followed by the front neck straps, and lastly some finishing touches including the lace for the front closure.

MATERIALS

*The hook size and yarn weight stated below were the ones I used for size S
but since this is a made-to-measure pattern, you can use your own preferred
hook size and yarn weight. In general, I recommend either sport or DK weight
yarn

• Hook 4.0mm*
• Sport (weight 2) XS – S – 100 – 150g /  M – L – 150 – 200g / XL -XXL – 200 – 300g
• Tape measure
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

• ch – chain
• st/s – stitch/es
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
• dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

PATTERN GUIDE & OVERVIEW

•  All texts including photos are to be read from left to right.
• This pattern is divided into 3 parts: Part I – Main Body – created starting from the widest part of the bust area going down  Part II – Front Neck Straps – attached to the main body and created from the bust area going up to the neck straps Part III – Finishing the Top – connecting the straps, adding the border and inserting the lace for the front closure
• Chains made at the beginning of each row do NOT count as a stitch unless stated otherwise.
• CONSIDER YOUR YARN STRETCH AT ALL TIMES. It is recommended to crochet loosely while making this top to make it more stretchable.

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED

For reference, I have also provided my measurements in the parentheses below.

• Measurement A = around the widest part of your bust area (31in)
• Measurement B = from 1 inch above the nipple to 1 inch below the underbust (4in) For bustier
  ladies (cup C or D), measure vertically not including the curve of your breast area.
• Measurement C = from 1 inch above the nipple to your desired length (7in)

PART I. MAIN BODY

Step 2. 

Ch1, *sc on the first st, dc on the next*. Repeat ** until the end of the row. You should end with a dc.

Tip: For this step, I recommend making your sts on the bumpy part (back ridge loop) of the ch as pointed by the arrows in the photo below.
This will give us a seamless look once we attach the front neck straps later

Step 3. 

Ch1, flip your work, *sc on the first st, dc on the next*. Repeat ** until the end of the row. You should end with a dc. You just
made 2 rows of lemon peel sts. Repeat this step until you reach measurement B. (I made 15 rows)

Once you reach measurement B, try your work around your bust area. Just like in step 1, the ends of your panel should meet when
slightly stretched.

• If the ends of your panels are overlapping, then it means that the top will be too loose on you – the back part will sag when you
  wear it. Check how many sts are overlapping. This is the number of ch that you must subtract from your original foundation ch.
• If the ends of your panels require too much stretching for them to meet, then it means that the top will be too tight on you and
  there is a possibility for an open space in the middle of your bust area when you wear the top. If you are comfortable with this
  then you may proceed. If not, measure how much more length is needed for your ends to meet when slightly stretched. Then using your existing work, count how many more sts comprise that additional length needed. This is the number of ch you need
  to add to your original foundation ch.

Step 5. 

Make 4 non-decrease rows of lemon peel st (similar to what you did in steps 2 and 3).

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you reach measurement C. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off.
The edges of the decrease rows may appear rough at first so you can pinch/ stretch them carefully to make the edges and the slope
appear smoother.

PART II. FRONT NECK STRAPS

Try your main panel around your body, with the ends at the center of your chest just as
you would wear it. Using a st marker, mark the part of your work that falls beneath the
middle part of your armpit. Do the same for both sides. Now count the number of sts
from the end up to your st marker (do not count the st where the st marker is), both sides
should have the same even number of sts. Adjust accordingly if not.

From the end up to this st marker is where you will be making the front neck straps.
(I marked the 31st st from each end so I have 30sts on each side which was around 7in each) 

To make the coverage for the bust area, you will be making a series of decrease and 2 non-decrease rows until you reach the armpit
area.

Step 1. 

Start working at the part of your main panel where the starting slip knot (starting tail) is. Sc2tog on the 1st and 3rd st (skip the
2nd st). Dc on the next. *Sc on the next st, dc on the next*. Repeat ** until you reach the last 3 sts before the st marker. Dc2tog on the
next and the last st (skip the st in between). Put a st marker on this row for easier counting of rows (decrease row).

Step 2. 

Make 2 non-decrease rows of lemon peel sts like what you did in steps 3 and 4 under Part I
Repeat steps 1-2 until you reach the armpit area as shown by the gray dotted line on the photo below. (I made a total of 6 rows starting
from the main body).

Step 3. 

From here, make a series of decrease and 3 non-decrease rows instead until you reach your desired thickness for the neck
strap. Put a st marker on every decrease row for easier counting of rows (I made a total of 12 rows for this step until I had only 6 sts
remaining which was around 1in).

Step 4. 

Continue making non-decrease rows until the straps can reach the middle part of the back of your neck when worn. When
adding rows, consider that the yarn may stretch further as you wear it to avoid making it too long.

You have 2 options here. You can
stop, cut and fasten your work once you reach this point and later on, you will connect this to the strap on the other side. Another option
is making the straps long enough to tie them at the back of your neck instead of sewing them together. (I made a total of 16 rows for
this step until the straps are long enough to reach the back of my neck when worn.)

Now you will make the strap on the other side with the same number of rows and sts. Repeat steps 1-4 except this time you will start
step 1 from the st next to the st marker.

PART III. FINISHING THE TOP

Border: 

Add an sc border around each side of your work. For the bottom part of the top, you may add an sc border or
make another row of lemon peel sts. Do not crochet too tight when adding the sc border to avoid getting a
wrinkly top. Make sure to put back the st markers after putting the sc border. (I made another row of lemon peel
sts at the bottom)

Straps: 

If you made short straps up to your neck only, connect both ends via sewing or adding an sc
or sl st, whichever you are more comfortable with

Front closure: 

Using 2 strands of yarn, make a slip knot and chain at least around 32in. For bustier ladies
with sizes L and above, you might want to make it at least 37in long. Once done with the ch,
you may want to cut the tails such that they have the same length.

Remember that you put st markers on the 1st decrease row under Parts I and II. Start
inserting your chain into the space after the 1st st marker then continue along the sts next
to the sc border. Just insert the chain into the spaces in between sts. If you want the half
closure look, you end up inserting the ch on the 2nd st marker. For the second look, just
continue inserting your chain until you reach the last row.

There are really no specific spaces where you should insert your chain but it is
recommended that you insert it the same number of times and end it the same way for both
sides.