Crochet Bikini Top – This pattern is for a traditional triangular bikini top made with crochets. A neat border design connects the two bra cups that are manufactured separately to form the pattern. The makers can select between two different strap systems, depending on the type of support required: the standard halter style and the cross-back style.
The pattern in question is custom-made. Consequently, counting and math will be needed to customize the bikini top to your unique measurements because it is made to fit perfectly.
But the pattern also includes suggested stitch counts and row counts for the standard market sizes (XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL). Lastly, we include the testers’ measurements and statistics in the pattern’s last section for reference with their various body forms.
The crochet symbol charts, step-by-step photos, and textual directions make up the pattern. It would be perfect if the yarn had the right weight and a smooth texture against skin.
Materials
- Any category #1 yarn.
- 3.00mm hook
- Stitch marker
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Tape Measure
Skill Level : Advanced beginner
Construction of the Pattern
A. Upper Part
B. Bottom Part
- Turning
- Box Stitches
C. Edging and Straps
Size Guide
This is a made-to-measure pattern. Here is the measurement we need before starting.
Consider your whole breast as a circle, use the nipple as the center and find the radius “X”. (See diagram ↘ )
The chart below shows the general radius for different bra sizes.
| Bra Cup | Radius |
| A | 7cm / 2.76” |
| B | 8cm / 3.15” |
| C | 9cm / 3.5” |
| D | 10cm / 4” |
| DD | 11cm / 4.3” |
| E | 12cm / 4.7” |
Abbreviations US
- CH – Chain Stitch
- ST – Stitch
- SL-ST – Slip Stitch
- SC – Single Crochet
- SC2tog – Single Crochet 2 Stitches Together
- FSC – Foundation Single Crochet
- HDC – Half Double Crochet
- DC – Double Crochet
- RS – Right Side
- WS – Wrong Side
- PM – Place Marker
- SP – Space
- REP – Repeat
Gauge 4” x 4”
22 ST x 22 rows
* This is a made-to-measure pattern, which means the instructions below won’t be base on stitch counts. The gauge provided here is just a reference to make sure the yarn weight is right for the proportions we’d like to achieve for our stitches.
Row 1 : 22 FSC. CH1, turn. (See instructions in the next page.)
Row 2 : SC in the first ST. *SC2tog in the same (1st.) and the next ST (see diagram above or picture 1 in page 6). REP from * to the end. CH1 and turn.
Row 3 : SC in each ST to the end. CH1 and turn.
Row 4 : SC2tog in the first and the second ST. *SC2tog in the same (2nd.) and the next ST. REP from * to the end. Add 1 extra SC in the last ST. CH1 and turn.
Row 5 : SC in each ST to the end. CH1 and turn. REP from Row 2 to Row 5 until you have 22 rows.
* Don’t frog the gauge swatch if your measurement “X” is 10cm / 4”.
Pattern Stitches
FSC – Foundation Single Crochet
1. CH2, insert the hook in the first CH. Yarn over and pull through. (2 loops on the hook).
2. Yarn over and pull through 1st. loop (2 loops on the hook).
3. Yarn over and pull through both loops. (1 loop on the hook) 1st. FSC made.
4. Insert the hook in the bottom 2 loops (see the yarn needle in the picture 4-1, 4-2). Yarn over and pull through. (2 loops on the hook).
5. Yarn over and pull through 1st. loop (2 loops on the hook).
6. Yarn over and pull through both loops. 2nd. FSC made.
REP from step 4 to 6 to make as many STs as needed for the row.
Check the video tutorial by TL Yarn Craft here if you need further help for the stitch.
Instructions (The beginning CH never counts as a ST unless stated. )
Upper Part
Row 1: Make a row of FSC in even number matching the length of you measurement “X”. CH1 and turn.
* Below is the chart with suggested FSC base on the number of measurement “X” for different sizes.
| Size | measurement “X” | FSC |
| XS | 7cm / 2.76” | 16 |
| S | 8cm / 3.15” | 18 |
| M | 9cm / 3.5” | 20 |
| L | 10cm / 4” | 22 |
| XL | 11cm / 4.3” | 24 |
| XXL | 12cm / 4.7” | 26 |
Row 2 : SC in the first ST. *SC2tog in the same (1st.) and the next ST (see picture 1↑). REP from * to the end. Turn.
Row 3 : CH1, SC in each ST to the end. Turn.
Row 4 : CH1, SC2tog in the first and the second ST. *SC2tog in the same (2nd.) and the next ST.
REP from * to the end. Add 1 extra SC in the last ST. Turn.
Row 5 : CH1, SC in each ST to the end. Turn.
REP from Row 2 to Row 5 until your total row count reaches the number of your starting stitch. (For example, I started with 16 stitches, I should stop when I reach row 16.)
The panel should look close to a square at this point. Once worn, it will become the diamond shape due to the pull from the strap.
Bottom Part
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For sizes S, M, L, XL and XXL
Row 1 : CH1, SC in each ST. (1SC, CH1, 1SC) in the last ST. PM in the CH1 SP (see picture 2↓). Turn the work so we are working on the side of the panel (see picture 3↓). SC in each rows to the end. Turn.
For size S, stop here and move to Row 2 in the next page.
Row ( 2, 2, 2, 2 ): CH1, SC in each ST. (1SC, CH1, 1SC) in the CH1 SP. PM in the CH1 SP. SC in each ST to the end. Turn.
REP Row 2 as the chart below for different sizes.
| Sizes | REP Row2 this↓ many times |
| M | 0 |
| L | 1 |
| XL | 2 |
| XXL | 3 |
For sizes XS:
Row 1: CH4 (count as 1DC and CH1), SK the next ST, DC in the next ST (see picture 4↓). * CH1, SK the next ST, DC in the next ST. REP from * until 3ST left (see picture 5↓). CH1, SK the next ST, HDC in the next ST. CH1, (1HDC, CH1, 1HDC) in the last ST. Turn the work so we are working on the side of the panel. CH1, HDC in the next row (see picture 6↓). *CH1, SK the next row, DC in the next row. REP from * to the end. Turn.
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For sizes (S, L, XXL ):
Row (2, 4, 6): CH4 (count as 1DC and CH1), SK the next ST, DC in the next ST (see picture 4↑). * CH1, SK the next ST, DC in the next ST. REP from * until 1STs before the CH1 SP. CH1, SK the next ST, (1HDC, CH1, 1HDC) in the CH SP. Continue REP from * to the end. Turn.
For sizes (M, XL):
Row (3, 5): CH4 (count as 1DC and CH1), SK the next ST, DC in the next ST (see picture 4↑). * CH1, SK the next ST, DC in the next ST. REP from * until 2STs before the CH1 SP (see picture 7↓). SK the next ST, (CH1, 1HDC) in the next ST, the CH1 SP, and the next ST. (see picture 8↓).
Continue REP from * to the end. Turn.
For all sizes:
Row 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7 ) : CH1, SC in each ST and CH1 SP to the end. 1SC in the 3rd CH of the last ST. Turn.
Row 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ) : CH4 (count as 1DC and CH1). SK the next ST, DC in the next ST. * CH1, SK the next ST, DC in the next ST. REP from * to the end. Turn.
REP Row 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7 ) and Row 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) as many times as you need to cover the bottom part of your breast.
The chart below shows the suggested amount of rows for different sizes.
| Bra Cup | Times of REPs | Total Rows |
| XS | 2 | 3 Box rows, 2 SC rows |
| S | 3 | 4 Box rows, 3 SC rows |
| M | 3 | 4 Box rows, 3 SC rows |
| L | 4 | 5 Box rows, 4 SC rows |
| XL | 4 | 5 Box rows, 4 SC rows |
| XXL | 5 | 6 Box rows, 5 SC rows |
* Stop after the last Box row.
For the 1st. bra cup, CH1 cut the yarn and fasten off.
REP above steps for the 2nd. bra cup but DO NOT cut the yarn and continue to the Edging and Straps part in the next page.
Edging and Straps
Now, we are going to make a round of SC stitches along the edge to connect the two bra cups as the diagram shows below.
Round 1 : 3SC in the first ST (see picture 7↓). SC in each DC and CH SP of the previous row until 1 ST left. SC2tog to connect the two bra cups (see picture 8↓). Make sure the cups are facing the same side. Continue to put SC in each CH1 SPs and DCs from the previous row until 1 ST left. 3SC in the last ST.
Turn your work so we are working on the side ②. Put 2SC in each DC rows, 1SC in each SC rows and each FSC until 1ST left. 3SC in the last FSC.
Turn your work again so we are working on side ③. Put 1SC in each SC rows and 2SC in each DC rows. After the last 2SC in the last DC row on the first bra cup, put 1SC in the base of the SC2tog where we connect the 2 bra panels (see picture 9↑).
REP the same method to complete side ➃ and ⑤. SL ST in the first SC to close the round.
* For Round 2 where we start to build the straps, you can chose from the Normal style (see picture 10↓) and the Cross-back style (which is recommended for bigger bra sizes to ease out the pressure on the neck. see picture 11↓).
Round 2 (Normal Style) (4 straps in total, 2 neck straps; 2 bust straps): CH140 (or any preferable length for the bust strap), add a bead if you prefer at the end of your CHs (see picture 12↓). SC in each CHs back to the bra cup (see picture 13↓) until 3CHs left. CH3, SK the last 3CHs and the 3SCs at the corner, SL ST in the next ST (see picture 14↓).
SL ST in each STs along the edge, stop before the 3SC at the next corner. CH 140. Again, add a bead if you prefer at the end of your CHs. SC in each CH STs back to the bra cup until 3CHs left.
CH3, SK the last 3CHs and the 3SCs at the corner, SL ST in the next ST.
* Continue to SL ST in each STs along the edge, stop before the 3SC at the next corner. CH 120 (or any preferable length for the neck strap). Add a bead if you prefer at the end of your CHs. SC in each CH STs back to the bra cup until 3CHs left. CH3, SK the last 3CHs and the 3SCs at the corner, SL ST in the next SC ST.
REP from * for the second neck strap. SL ST in each ST and SL ST in last SC from the previous row to close the round.
Round 2 (Cross-back Style) (2 straps in total): CH6, SK the 3SC at the corner, SL ST in the next ST. (see picture 15↓). SL ST in each SC STs along the edge, stop before the 3SC at the next corner. CH6, SK the 3SC at the corner, SL ST in the next ST.
* Continue to SL ST in each SC STs along the edge. Stop before the next 3SC corner. CH 240 (or any preferable length for the strap. Keep in mind that this strap is going to go around the shoulder, cross the back and coming out from the side of the opposite bra cup. See picture 16↓.) Add a bead if you prefer at the end of your CHs. SC in each CH STs back to the bra cup until 3CHs left. CH3, SK the last 3CHs and the 3SCs at the corner, SL ST in the next SC ST.
REP from * for the second strap. SL ST in each ST and SL ST in last SC from the previous row to close the round. This side with SL ST frame is the right-side of your bikini top (see picture 17↓). Blocking is highly suggested especially for small size breasts. Extend and lay flat your bikini top while blocking. It would help smooth out the sticking out point we created for contain the breast.
Weave in all the yarn ends and your bikini top is done. ☺