Crochet the romantic Wildrose Shoulder Bag that is composed of 15 granny squares that are seamed together in a special way! This lovely bag has an effortlessly chic vibe as it holds all your essentials and can be worn on one shoulder or across the body. A variety of crochet stitches using strong and sturdy mercerized cotton makes this design a very fun project!
Finished Dimensions: Width: 10.5”/27 cm, Height: 13”/33 cm, Straps: 28”/71 cm
Wildrose Shoulder Bag Patter
Materials
- 3 skeins of 24/7 Cotton in Taupe (worsted weight level 4 yarn); my bag used 187 g/348 yds (2 skeins) – if you plan on making the strap longer, making the squares bigger, adding a pocket or generally crochet more loosely, I would recommend getting 3 skeins to be safe.
- 2.75 mm and 3.75 mm crochet hooks
- Yarn needle
- Lock ring stitch markers
- Steamer (optional for blocking granny squares)
- Small purse organizer insert (optional to add zipper closure and compartments to this bag)- dimensions of the insert are: Length: 9“/23 cm, Height: 5.9“/15 cm
Notes cont’d
- square may curl/puff out, but the last round and blocking will help flatten the granny square. If you want the granny square to be very flat, you could try using a 3.25 mm hook for those initial four rounds.
- Once all 15 granny squares have been crocheted, they are laid out in
- a special arrangement and seamed together using a special slip stitch seaming method.
- Stitches are then picked up along the top edge of the bag to form the top edging and strap (half double crochets separated by chain 1’s to give a lovely eyelet detail).
- You can adjust the length of the strap based on where you want the bag to hang and whether you want to wear it as a cross-body bag. I am 5’6 for reference and the bag hits me at my hip when I wear it on one shoulder. I can wear it as a cross-body bag at this length too (sits higher up). Keep in mind that your bag will hang lower once you have filled it with contents and more weight is added to it.
- A round of single crochet stitches are then worked along one side of the top edging and strap. Next, a round of slip stitches are worked to help strengthen and widen the strap even more. This is then repeated along the other side of the top edging and strap.
- Special decrease stitches are worked at the bottom of the V for each round
- to ensure the stitches do not bunch up or puff out at this spot.
- Blocking helps to relax the fibres and ensures the squares lay flat.
- An optional interior pocket is crocheted and seamed into the bag.
- You can purchase a small size interior bag organizer if you would like to add some compartments and zipper closure to this shoulder bag as it perfectly fits.
- You can try adding button closure to this bag (see note on page 9).
- If you would like your bag to be larger, you can work half double crochets or double crochets in Round 5 instead of single crochets. You could also add Round 6 or Round 7 of the Wildrose Granny Square to make each granny square larger (see pattern for these extra rounds in Appendix A on page 13). By making each granny square larger, you will increase the size of your overall bag.
- Generally, the width of the bag is approximately twice the length of the diagonal of the granny square. For example, the diagonal of the granny square in this pattern is 5”/12.7 cm, and the width of the final bag is 10.5”/26.7 cm. If your granny square’s diagonal is 7.5”/19 cm, the width of the final bag would be approximately 15”/38 cm.
- This bag is technically reversible as the “wrong side” has a very unique look with raised/pronounced edges that help define each granny square. You can wear the bag both ways depending on which look you prefer!
- There is a “Wildrose Granny Square”
- video tutorial on my blog & YouTube!
Abbreviations & Special sts
- Magic Ring (MR): Make a loop. Hold yarn where ends cross. Insert hook into loop and pull up working yarn. Yarn over and work beginning chains. Work subsequent stitches in magic ring and then pull tight to close.
- Puff stitch (puff st): [YO, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up a loop], repeat 3 times in same st, YO, draw yarn through 7 loops on hook.
- Beginning cluster: Ch 3, [YO, insert hook in st or sp, YO, pull up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops], rep 2 times in same st or sp, YO, draw through 3 loops on hook.
- Cluster: [YO, insert hook in st or sp, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops on hook], rep 3 times in same st or sp, YO, draw through 4 loops on hook.
Special decreases used at the bottom of the V for the top edging:
- Half double crochet decrease: YO, insert hook into both indicated gaps. YO, pull through first 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 3 loops.
- Invisible single crochet decrease (worked across 3 stitches in this pattern): Insert hook into front loops of next 3 stitches. YO, pull through 3 loops. YO, pull through both loops.
- Invisible slip stitch decrease (worked across 3 stitches in this pattern): Insert hook into front loops of next 3 stitches. YO, pull through all loops.
Pattern
Please reference Appendix A (Granny Square tutorial) on page 11 for detailed step-by-step instructions on how to crochet this granny square AND how to make this granny square larger.
Granny Square (worked in rounds)
Using 3.75 mm hook,
Round 1: Make Magic Ring. Chain 4 (counts as 1st double crochet and chain 1). *1 dc, ch 1*, rep 11 times in ring. Join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. (12 ch-1 spaces and 12 dc).
Round 2: Slip stitch into ch-1 space, Chain 3. *Puff st, chain 1* in each ch-1 space around. Join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning ch-3. (12 puffs) Round 3: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space. Work beginning cluster in space. [*Ch 1, cluster* in next 2 ch-1 spaces, Ch
3. Cluster in next ch-1 sp]. Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 more times. *Ch 1, cluster* in next 2 ch-1 spaces. Ch 3, slip stitch to 3rd chain of beg ch-3. (12 clusters)
Round 4: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space. Work beginning cluster in space. Ch 1, work cluster in next space, ch 1. In ch-3 space, work *cluster, ch 3, cluster*. [In next 2 ch-1 sps, work *ch 1, cluster*, Ch 1. In Ch-3 sp, work *cluster, ch 3, cluster*]. Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 more times. Ch 1, slip stitch to 3rd chain of beg ch-3. (16 clusters)
Round 5: Slip stitch 2 to get to ch-1 space, ch 2. Work 2 sc in same space. 3 sc in next ch-1 sp. [In next ch-3 sp, *3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc*. 3 sc in next 3 ch-1 sp.]. Repeat everything between brackets [ ] 2 more times. In next ch-3 sp, *3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc*. 3 sc in last chain space. Slip stitch to 2nd chain of beg ch-2. (60 sc)
Crochet 15 granny squares in total and block them to ensure they lay flat. This makes it easier when you seam them together. Do not worry if your granny square dimensions vary slightly from the gauge given: your overall bag will just turn out a little bit larger/smaller.
Seaming Granny Squares Together
Arrange the 15 granny squares as indicated by diagram below with the wrong sides facing upwards:
We will be using a special slip stitch seaming technique to attach the granny squares together. With this technique, we will be using slip stitches to attach the edges of the squares together with the working yarn (as opposed to using the whip stitch where we work with a long final end and a yarn needle). This seaming technique leaves a visible and pronounced ridge, that is why we seam the wrong sides together so the ridges are on the inside of the bag.
To do the slip stitch seaming, insert your crochet hook into both the front and back loops of one stitch on one granny square. Insert your crochet hook into
both the front and back loops of one stitch of the second granny square. Yarn over and draw through all the loops.
Beginning at the start point as indicated below (the red circle “S”), work the slip stitch seaming to attach the granny squares together. Follow the direction of the arrows to minimize the need to cut and rejoin the yarn. Once you have finished seaming the middle section (arrows 1-12), cut the yarn and rejoin at the points indicated by the diagram below (the blue circle and green circle). Finish seaming (arrows 13-15 and 16-18).
This collage below shows you the start point where the red circle is. The arrows indicate the direction you are working the slip stitch seaming (as illustrated by the previous diagram):
This collage shows you where to rejoin the yarn once you have finished the middle seaming. After you have seamed the squares together on both side edges, you have joined all 15 squares together!
Fold the piece upwards so Square 12 overlaps with Square 3; Square 15 overlaps with Square 6. Fold the outer granny squares inwards (Squares 1, 2, 7 and 11). Note that the collage below shows the right sides facing outwards.
We will now use the slip stitch seaming technique to seam the folded granny squares into place. With the wrong side facing you, start at the red circle and follow the arrows to seam the four edges as shown. Fasten off and repeat the process starting at the other red circle.
Flip the bag inside-out so that the right sides of the granny squares are now facing outwards. You can steam block the bag to help smooth the seams and joined granny squares.
Top Edging & Strap
{This section is worked around the entire top edge of the bag.}
With the bag facing you so that the dip of the V is in the middle, rejoin the yarn in the top right corner of the bag (the chain 2 gap of the corner of the granny square). To rejoin the yarn, make a slip knot, insert the crochet hook into the indicated space, add the slip knot and pull through.
Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as 1 hdc and
chain 1), skip 1, hdc 1. *Chain 1, sk 1, hdc 1*, rep around until you have reached the bottom V (end off with a
*ch 1, sk 1* before working the hdc dec). Work a hdc dec across the chain 2 gaps of the granny square corners in the dip of the V. Continue working
*chain 1, sk 1, hdc 1* around until you have reached the second bottom V on the other side of the bag. Once again, work a hdc dec across the chain 2 gaps of the granny square corners. Continue *chain 1, sk 1, hdc 1* until you have reached the end of the round. At the end, you will chain 1, skip 1 and work a slip stitch in the 2nd chain of the initial chain 3 to close up the round. Do not fasten off.
This collage below shows where you will work the hdc decrease across the chain 2 gaps (the gaps are indicated by the two green stitch markers).
Strap:
Chain 110 (Adjust this length depending on how long you want your strap to be, especially if you plan on wearing this bag cross-body. Keep this initial chain length an even number).
With the WRONG side of the bag facing you, slip stitch to other top corner of bag (indicated by green stitch marker). Slip stitch 1 in stitch beside on the left to help anchor the strap in place (as indicated by the peach stitch marker). It is very important that these two slip stitches are worked on the wrong side of the bag, otherwise the strap will be twisted.
Row 1: Chain 1, turn. Begin crocheting back down the chain length (the strap) using the front and back loops of the chain stitches (leave the back bumps for later on in the pattern). Work 1 hdc in second chain of strap.
*Ch 1, sk 1, hdc 1*, across the chains. Slip stitch in adjacent stitch to tip of granny square (as indicated by peach stitch marker – the green stitch marker shows where the last hdc is worked). Do not cut the yarn.
Building up the Top Edging & Strap
{This section is worked on only one side of the bag and one side of the strap. The yarn is then cut, rejoined and repeated on the other side.}
Switch to 2.75 mm hook,
Round 1: Chain 1, continue working single crochets down the top edging and strap of the bag (you should be working in a clockwise direction). When approaching the dip of the V: locate the 5 middle stitches (including half double crochets and chain gaps) and work the following
pattern across these 5 middle stitches:
*Skip 1, Inv sc dec over 3 middle stitches, skip 1*. Continue working single crochets around and along the strap. Slip stitch to chain 1 to finish off the round.
This photo below shows you the direction you will always be working when building up the top edging and strap. You are working in a clockwise direction:
This collage below shows where you will work the invisible sc decrease across the 5 middle stitches:
This collage shows working single crochets along the strap:
Round 2: Work slip stitches around top edging and strap for added strength. When approaching the 3 middle stitches of the dip of the V, work an invisible slip stitch decrease. Continue working slip stitches around and along the strap. Slip stitch to first st, fasten off and weave in end.
This collage below shows the invisible slip stitch decrease in the dip of the V:
Next, we will repeat what we just did to build up the top edging and strap on the OTHER side of the bag.
Flip the bag over and rejoin the yarn at the top right corner of the bag. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 above for the “Building up the Top Edging & Strap” instructions. When crocheting along the bottom of the strap for Round 1, work the single crochets through the back bumps.
Note: If you want to try adding button closure to your bag, you could sew a button to one side in the dip of the V. On the other side, you could make a loop with chain stitches in the dip of the V during Round 2 after working the invisible slip stitch decrease and then finish up the round (e.g. inv sl st dec, chain 5, continue sl st around).
Your final strap is comprised of a middle section of half double crochet stitches interspersed with chain 1’s; this middle section has single crochet stitches on either side, and then slip stitches on each end.
Optional Interior Pocket
{This pocket measures 5”/12.7 cm wide, 6”/15 cm long – adjust as necessary to fit your own cell phone.}
Using 3.75 mm hook and working in turned rows,
Chain 22.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook, Sc across. (21 sts)
R2: Chain 1, turn. Starting in second st from hook, sc across. (21 sts)
R3-35: Repeat Row 2.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Use running stitch and attach cell phone pocket to inside of bag, attaching down one side, along the bottom, and up the other side of the pocket.
Congratulations, your beautiful Wildrose Shoulder Bag is complete!